This route starts in Murphy, NC and travels across US Forest Service and paved roads to Deals Gap, NC. At Deals Gap it picks up at US Hwy 129 which is also known as the “Tail of the Dragon”. The route ends at the north entrance to the Tail of the Dragon on the TN side. This route has many interesting things to see along the way as highlighted below!
There are also several alternate routes (with waypoints and additional points of interest) that continue on from the end of Hwy 129 – see the legend section of the map that is embedded below. Click the checkbox on any of the layers that start with “ALT” to view the those points on the map. Downloadable files for the route are available in GPX and KML formats via the links below as well (above the map).
Tail of the Dragon US Hwy 129 gained its nickname the “Tail of the Dragon” because it has 318 sharp curves over the course of 11 miles. It is very popular with motorcycle riders and sports car drivers, and many of them drive the road at very high speeds. There are photographers that are stationed at various curves along the road who take photos of each vehicle throughout the day. You can buy the photos online if you would like a copy of them. I ended buying all 10 (see 3 of them below the map)! If you drive the road on the weekend please drive slow, stay in your lane and watch out for oncoming cars. Multiple accidents and even fatalities occur on this road every year.
Cheoah Dam & Powerhouse The Cheoah Dam is a 225 foot high hydroelectric dam and powerhouse that was completed in 1919. It was also the site of the “dam scene” in the 1993 movie The Fugitive which starred Harrison Ford. You can watch the scene on YouTube as well.
Cheoah River Rapids The Cheoah River has a series of rapids, and the largest one is Bear Creek Falls which is near the end of the whitewater stretch and north of the Tapoco Lodge. Bear Creek Falls is a class IV+ (very difficult) rapid with a 12-foot vertical drop. This stretch of the river is popular with rafters and kayakers. See the video of the kayakers below!
Cheoah River Suspension Bridge This narrow foot suspensions bridge crosses the Cheoah River in Robbinsville, NC. Its capacity is limited to only 4 people at a time.
Tapoco Lodge The Tapoco Lodge is a historic structure that is located on the banks of the Cheoah River just downstream from the Bear Creek Falls rapid. There are additional rapids near the lodge, and you view them from the lodge deck or the area down by the river. The lodge also has a restaurant and tavern that offers local craft beers, and is a great place to stop for a bite to eat before you drive the Tail of the Dragon (or after)!
US Forest Service Road Status Please check the status of any Forest Service Roads that you plan to travel on prior to starting your trip. Visit the USFS Interactive Visitor Map and choose the search icon in the box at the top of the page and enter the name of the Forest Service Road. Click on the road name in the results and then click the map marker icon to view the details for the road.
It is also good practice to check the “Alerts & Notices” section of the USFS website for the forest that the road is in. When roads are closed they are typically updated on these pages. Click the links below to visit the page for the Nantahala or Cherokee National Forests. Responsible use will benefit all of us so the roads can be properly maintained and open for our enjoyment.
Additional Points of Interest: ■ Tail of the Dragon Scenic Lookout ■ Stewart Cabin Historic Site ■ Blue Hole Public Fishing Area ■ Multiple Campgrounds Along Forest Service Road 210 – Tellico River Rd
Total Length: 76.5 Miles | 1 Day
MAP PIN LEGEND: Blue – Paved Road Green – Forest Service Road Red – Point of Interest
Thanks for stopping by Southeast4x4trails.com! If you are looking for a detailed guide on how to install a GMRS radio or Ham radio in your Jeep or off-road vehicle you have come to the right place. Keep reading for more details about this 5-part series on my radio install project.
If you have found your way here via Google, this site is about the Jeep, 4×4, and off-road community in the Southeast US. Check out the home page for an interactive Google map of trails, off-road parks, forest service roads, points of interest and more in the GA, TN, NC, and SC areas. The Journal has other articles similar to this one on topics of interest such as “how-to” guides, trails and places to visit, and local history. The Resources page has many links to mapping, GIS, USFS forest areas, and technical info.
This is the third in a series of 5 posts that detail the install of a Midland MXT400 MicroMobile GRMS radio and Icom IC-2730A ham radio in my Jeep Wrangler TJ. You can adapt this information to any vehicle, it doesn’t have to be a Jeep TJ or even a Jeep!
This post will cover the installation of the radio antenna mounting brackets, attaching the antennas for both radios to the mounting brackets, and the initial routing of the antenna coaxial cables.
Part 1 includes a complete list of all the radio gear, tools, parts, and hardware that I usedandPart 2 includes a radio system guide and wiring diagram.
If you want to jump directly to the install info just click one of the links below:
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
Please note that some of the information in this post is adapted from a forum thread that I posted on RadioReference.com named “Multiple Antenna Question for 2M/70CM” I was fortunate enough to have several very, very knowledgeable and helpful people respond to my post and help me figure out the installation plan for this project. I have including some of the details from that forum thread in this post for your benefit. Some of the knowledge behind the various components of the radio system are key to understanding why those components were selected and what makes their performance superior to your average radio gear install.
Antenna Ground Plane – Why Is It Important?
Don’t skip over this section – it is important and relates to how well your radio will perform.
When it comes to installing antennas for mobile radios on vehicles, the generally accepted “ideal” scenario is one where you are able to mount the antenna on top of a metal roof on the vehicle. The antenna is mounted on the roof by either drilling a hole through the roof and installing the antenna mount (such as an NMO) or by using a magnetic mounting base.
Either of those mounting methods allows the metal surface of the roof to connect to the antenna, where the metal roof of the vehicle services as what is called a “ground plane”. A ground plane is a “flat or nearly flat horizontal reflecting surface that serves as part of the antenna and reflects the radio waves from the other antenna elements.” (Wikipedia)
So, if you are mounting the antennas on a Jeep you do not have a metal roof – it’s either a fabric material if you run a soft-top or fiberglass if you run a hardtop.
Yes, there are other flat metal surfaces to mount the antenna on, but the size and area of the flat metal surface is important if that surface is going to act as a ground plane for the radio antenna(s). If you are using a GMRS radio, 2-meter or 70cm Ham radio, there isn’t a flat metal surface large enough on the Jeep to serve as a ground plane.
What is important is that you use what is called a “no ground plane” antenna for the frequency that your radio will transmit on. Both of the antennas that I installed are “no ground plane” antennas – the Larsen NMO450CHW for the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio and the Larsen NMO2/70B for the 2-meter/70cm Icom IC-2730A Ham radio.
In technical terms, both the NMO2/70B and NMO450CHW are 1/2 wave antennas which means that the length of the antenna whip (long metal piece) is equal to 1/2 the length of the full RF wave for the bands they are designed to operate on. This length allows the antennas to work without a ground plane.
The information available on “no ground plane” and “ground plane” antenna setups is virtually endless. If you would like to learn more about these concepts, Google either of those terms but beware it gets very technical very quickly. My goal in this post is to highlight why a “no ground plane” antenna is the correct choice for these radios when they are mounted on a Jeep.
Antenna Mounting Location on the Jeep
I mounted the antennas for the MXT400 and IC-2730A on the front fenders of my Jeep. If you are wondering why I mounted them on the front fenders and not in the rear of the Jeep as many people do, the short answer is mounting any radio antenna on the rear of a Jeep Wrangler is not a good choice if you want to maximize the signal range, quality of your radio communicationsand the radio’s overall performance.
In part 1 of this series I went into more detail about why mounting the radio antennas on the front fender was a better location, but this is the main takeaway:
Why? Because typically there are multiple obstructions in the rear of Jeep (tire carrier, hard/soft top, other radio antennas, etc.) that affect the path and emissions of the RF waves that your radio antenna transmits. It alters the radio wave propagation pattern which means it impacts (makes it worse) the radio’s performance.
If you would like to read more about this topic, visit the ‘Project Background and Detail’ section in Part 1. In fact, when I first installed the MXT400 I mounted the antenna on the rear tire carrier before I had any clue about the disadvantage mounting it in that location.
1. Reinforce the Antenna Mounting Brackets
Both of the antennas are mounted on Laird SBT3400 NMO straight brackets. You will need 4 total brackets, 2 for each fender. Joining two brackets together provides a stronger base that is less likely to bend the brackets.
Another lesson learned from the first time I installed the antennas – if the antenna coil gets hung up in trees or branches, it will bend the mounting bracket.
After I initially finished this project, I went on a trip the following weekend to an area that had pretty thick tree cover throughout the entire trail. The leaves on tree branches kept getting caught in the open coil on the Ham radio antenna (Larsen NMO2/70B) and it almost ripped the mounting bracket off the fender. Also, another handy trick is to put a piece of heat shrink around the antenna coil so leaves and branches will not get caught in it to start with (see the end of this post for a photo).
First, use a strong adhesive such as Gorilla Glue Clear Epoxy (part 4200101) to bond two of the mounting brackets together. Follow the directions on the package to mix the epoxy together. You can use the package as a mixing tray as well.
Coat the inside of both brackets with the epoxy and align them by sliding them into position with your fingers. They will slide pretty easily, so make sure all 4 sides on both brackets are aligned and square. While holding both brackets together with one hand, attach a clamp and slowly tighten it to make sure that the brackets do not slide out of alignment.
Once the brackets are clamped together use a cloth to wipe off the excess epoxy around the edges. The less epoxy on the top, bottom, and sides of the bracket the better. Let the brackets sit clamped together for 30-45 minutes to give them enough time to bond and cure.
You will wind up with some excess epoxy on the top, bottom, and sides even if you are extra careful. An easy way to clean the brackets up before you paint them is to use an angle grinder such as the Ryobi P421 with a wire cup brush attachment. Use the clamp to attach the bracket to a solid surface, then just run the wire cup brush over the bracket surface until all of the excess epoxy is removed.
Run the wire cup brush over the bracket until all of the excess epoxy is removed – it will be nice and shiny
Do the same thing with the Dremel tool and carbon or stainless steel bush until the sides are shiny as well
After all of the excess epoxy is removed use a center punch or something pointed to clean out any epoxy from the 3 screw holes on each bracket.
2. Prep and Paint the Mounting Brackets
Prepping and painting the mounting brackets is very similar to painting the radio mounting brackets as covered in part 2 of this series.
Since the brackets are mounted on the front fenders I wanted them to blend in with the rest of the Jeep’s body as much as possible, so I used a can of Mopar Body-Color Touch Up Spray Paint to get an exact paint match. If you are unsure of the color code for your Jeep check the sticker on the door jam on the driver’s side. It usually will include the factory paint color code or you can use this handy reference chart from Quadratech.
NOTE: Only prime and paint the top and sides of the bracket. Leave the bottom side of the brackets unfinished so it can make a good ground to the Jeep fender.
The instructions on the can for the flat white primer and flat black protective enamel state to “hold can upright 10-16 inches from the surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke. Keep the can the same distance from the surface. Keep the can in motion while spraying. Apply 2 or more lights coats a few minutes apart.”
Follow these directions and apply 3 coats of primer.
Give the primer at least an hour to dry, and take the outside temperature into account as well. I painted the brackets in mid-July in Georgia and the temperature was well over 90 degrees. Don’t rush it, if the primer is still tacky when you touch it give it more time to dry.
Next, follow the directions on the Mopar touch up paint can and apply 3 coats to the top and sides of the bracket. The same thing as the primer applies to dry time. I let the paint try on the brackets overnight after all 3 coats of the Mopar paint were applied.
Looks good, doesn’t it?
Make sure you coat the edges of the bracket as well
The instructions on the can for the dead flat clear coat state to “Hold can upright 8-12 inches from surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion slightly overlapping each stroke. Keep the can the same distance from the surface. Keep the can in motion while spraying. Apply 3 or more light coats continuously, spraying off the surface with each coat. For best results, apply multiple light coats versus one heavy coat.”
I applied 3 coats and let it dry four a couple of hours before installing the brackets onto the front fenders.
3. Mount the Brackets on the Front Fenders
Time to drill some holes in the Jeep (or whatever your rig might be). In general, the goal is to mount the antennas as far forward on the front fenders as possible.
The further the distance from the windshield and the rest of the body, the less the radio signal propagation from the antenna(s) is disrupted (theoretically). There is a physical limit to how far forward you can mount the brackets on the fenders while providing ample support and contact to the body. See the photos below for an illustration of where to mount the brackets.
As shown below, the right edge of the mounting bracket is right at ~5.5″ from the body at the firewall. You can test fit the bracket location by placing it on the fender, then sliding it towards the grille (front) of the Jeep to find the point where the bracket is still supported by the fender but is as far forward as possible as shown in the photo above on the right.
Once you have found the best mounting position for the bracket, mark the center of the 3 screw holes with a marker or something that will be easy to see.
To keep the mounting bracket in the position you marked, it is important to start the drill bit where the center of the hole should be (where you marked) to keep everything aligned. If the drill bit wanders off of the center of the hole, the bracket is either going to sit crooked or not fully contact the fender as you want it to.
Use a metal center punch to start the hole and help keep the drill bit in the correct place. Use the punch to make an impression on the fender where each of the mounting screw holes should be. This will help keep the drill bit at the center of the hole and from sliding around on the fender. When you start drilling the hole, rotate the drill bit slowly at first and then speed it up as the bit removes the metal..
Before you attach the bracket to the fender, remove a portion of the paint on the fender so the mounting bracket has a metal-on-metal connection which will create a good ground between the bracket and the body.
I used a Dremel tool with a carbon steel brush attachment to remove the paint. Carefully remove enough paint to match a width that is a little less than the width of the mounting bracket. You don’t want any bare metal on the fender to be exposed outside of where the bracket is mounted.
Remove the body paint slowly and focus on the area where the mounting bracket will contact the fender
4. Mount the Bracket on the Driver Side Fender
Before you mount the bracket on the fender, run a bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant around the portion of the bracket where it contacts the fender. This will help protect against rust or corrosion that is caused by water getting trapped underneath the bracket.
To secure the bracket to the fender, use 3 (per bracket) #10-32 x 1/2″ stainless steel machine screws. Place 3 star/external tooth washers on each screw between the bottom of the bracket and the fender. These will also help make a good electrical connection of the body. Secure the machine screws with 3 #10-32 stainless steel nylon locknuts on the underside of the fender.
5. Mount the Other Bracket on the Passenger Side Fender
Repeat the same process to install the other mounting bracket on the passenger side fender. Measure from the body at the firewall to the right edge of where the bracket should be placed.
You can also use a Kreg KMA2900 multi-mark tool to make sure the depth of the bracket matches the bracket on the driver’s side fender. Measure the bracket on the driver side fender by placing the end of the ruler against the fender. Then note the measurement at the end of the bracket, which is at the 9″ mark in the photo to the right.
Antenna Placement
Time for a little more antenna theory with regards to which antenna is mounted on which side of the Jeep. The Larsen NMO450CHW for the Midland MXT400 is mounted on the passenger side and the Larsen NMO2/70B for the Icom IC-2730A ham radio is mounted on the driver’s side.
Here is why – consider for a moment if both of the antennas were mounted on the back of the Jeep, say on the spare tire carrier as I originally mounted them.
If the antennas are too close together, there is a risk of the transmissions from one antenna being absorbed by the other antenna. Since these radios are capable of transmitting at 40 and 50 watts, if the transmissions from one antenna make it back to the radio connected to the other antenna there is a risk that the radio itself could be damaged by the RF energy. That absorption by the two antennas can impact the overall performance and range of the radios as well.
The idea behind mounting the Larson NMO450CHW on the passenger side is because that is the same side where the factory AM/FM stereo antenna is located on a Jeep TJ. The GMRS frequency band of 462/467 MHz is higher than the FM radio frequency band (~88-108 MHz), so it more or less will have less impact on the FM radio receiver in the Jeep.
The 2-meter ham frequency band of 144-148 MHz is closer to the FM radio frequency band, so putting the Larsen NMO2/70B on the other side (driver) of the Jeep puts it further away from the FM radio antenna. In turn, this (theoretically) reduces the chances of interference.
One thing to note however, given the power that both of these radios operate at it is possible that the FM radio could lose signal while talking on either the GMRS or ham radio. This has not happened to me, but I typically don’t have the FM radio on while either of the GMRS or Ham radios are in use.
6. Install NMO Mounts & Antennas
Now that you understand the “why” behind where each antenna is mounted, let’s move onto the installation.
I used Larsen NMOKHFUD NMO 3/4″ mounts which include the coaxial cable and no corrector forth both antennas. An important thing to note is that this type of NMO mount is typically designed to be mounted on the roof of a vehicle where the bottom side of the NMO mount and attached coaxial cable are not exposed to the exterior elements. Just the top/threaded portion of the NMO mount extends above the roofline where the attach is attached.
Given this design, it is important to make sure that the coaxial cable where it enters the NMO mount is properly sealed. If it isn’t, water can make its way inside the sleeve of the coax cable which will cause it to corrode.
Use a piece of marine-grade heat shrink tubing to seal the coax cable at the connector. Harbor Freight sells a good kit of 42 pieces of marine-grade heat shrink for only $5.99. The advantage of marine-grade heat shrink is that it has adhesive on the inside that melts when heated. This creates a good seal to protect against water. Cut a piece long enough to cover the metal connector and a portion of the coax as shown in the photo below. Heat it up with a heat gun until the heat shrink contracts and you can see the adhesive melt on the ends of the tube.
Unscrew the threaded part of the NMO mount and slide the base through the hole in the mounting bracket from the bottom. Re-attach the threaded part and the mount will fit snugly against the bracket. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the threaded part slowly until it is snug.
7. Protect the Antenna Coaxial Cable
Use spiral wrap first, then cover with split flex tubing
Be care when routing the coax around the edge that the arrow is pointing to – it is sharp
It is important to protect the coaxial cables for both antennas when you route them into the engine compartment. Cover the coax cable with 3/8″ plastic spiral wrap first. Use a zip tie to secure the spiral wrap in place where you start the run. Try and get it as tight as possible so the spiral wrap does not slip. If you have a hard time getting it try, consider using a zip tie puller/cutter tool.
Next, cover the coax cable with plastic split flex tubing and secure it in place with zip ties as well. This will give the coax cable extra protection as the cable needs to be routed around the sharp edge shown in the photo above to the right.
Attach enough split flex tubing so that the cable is protected right past the point where it enters the engine compartment – also see the photo above on the right as well. The edge is sharp and could potentially cut into the coax cable if not properly protected.
I found it was easier to pull the plastic weather stripping that is attached to the body/firewall back, then route the coax cable around the edge then push the weather stripping back into place.
Once you route the coax into the engine compartment do not run it to the point where it will pass through the firewall and into the cab. In part 4 of this series we will install a piece of high temperature braided sleeving that will protect the coax and power cables from high heat since it will be run close to the engine manifold. Just set the coax aside somewhere within the engine compartment where it will not get damaged
Close the hood and make sure it does not create a lot of tension on the coax cable when it is in the closed position. You may need to adjust the turn around the sharp corner to provide a bit more slack if it is tight. When the hood is closed it should look something similar to the photo below.
8. Label Both Antenna Coax Cables
IMPORTANT – Label both of the antenna coax cables so you know which cable/antenna goes with which radio. It’s easy to forget this once the coax cables are routed through the firewall and up to where the antennas are mounted.
For the labels, I used regular Avery 06141 file folder labels that you can buy on Amazon or at any office store. These labels have marks on each side, and I aligned those marks with the center of the coax cable (as best I could). Slide a piece of clear heat shrink over the label and heat it up for a nice, weatherproof seal.
9. Install the Antennas!
Now that the mounts are installed, attach the antennas to the mounts! Both antennas will come with rubber O-rings / gaskets that will protect against water getting in between the antenna base and the NMO mount. Place those O-rings around the mount then screw the antennas to the mounts. For the Larsen NMO450CHW I used the “super seal RGSS gasket” that it comes with. There is a paper insert in the package for the NMO450CHW that explains the difference between the two supplied O-rings.
Larsen NMO 2/70B Installed (Icom IC-2730A Ham Radio)
As mentioned back at the beginning of the post in the ‘Reinforce the Antenna Mounting Brackets’ section, the first time I was out on the trail the open coil on the Larsen NMO 2/70B kept getting caught in tree leaves and branches and almost pulled the antenna off of the mount. You can prevent this by covering the coil with a piece of heat shrink as shown in the photo to the right.
I just used a larger piece of the marine heat shrink and trimmed both ends of it once it cooled down.
Up Next – Part 4
Part 4 of this series will cover all things related to power for the radios. Running the power wiring, mounting the fuse blocks and the radio power cables so be sure to check it out next!
At 4,696 feet Rabun Bald is the second highest mountain peak in GA, to only Brasstown Bald at 4,784′ feet. Standing atop the old US Forest Service fire lookout tower at the summit, Rabun Bald offers 360-degree panoramic views as far as 100 miles of the surrounding area!
Rabun Bald is located in Sky Valley, GA which is in Rabun County. It is due east from the town of Dillard, GA off of Highway 441 / US 23 and north of the larger town of Clayton, GA.
Hiking Trail
The route starting at Beegum Gap offers the shortest route to the summit of Rabun Bald at a round trip distance of 3.2 miles. The ascent up to the summit is a steady uphill climb. The trailhead is at approximately 3,660 feet and the base of the fire lookout tower is at 4,673 feet. It took us about an hour to hike the uphill portion, and about 50 minutes back down to the trailhead from the summit.
Click each pin on the ‘Rabun Bald – Hiking Trail’ map below for photos
There are also 3 longer hiking trails to Rabun Bald. One route is 5.4 miles and starts off of Hale Ridge Rd and approaches the summit from the eastern face. The other is 7.9 miles also starts off Hale Ridge Rd, but intersects with the Beegum Gap trail and follows it to the summit. A third route is 8.1 miles and follows the Bartram Trail where it starts off Hale Ridge Road and also intersects with the Beegum Gap trail and follows it to the summit as well.
Rabun Bald Trailhead at Beegum Gap
Turn to the Summit – Stay to the Left at this Intersection
Elevation Profile – Hike up to the Summit
Speed gets slower as your approach the summit – it’s uphill!
Elevation Profile – Hike Down to the Trailhead
Speed increases as you descend back to the trailhead – it’s downhill!
History of Rabun Bald
Photo by the Rabun County Historical Society – rabunhistory.org
According to the Wikipedia page for Rabun Bald, the old lookout fire tower at the summit was the first of such towers that were constructed in this area. The photo to the left is of the original metal-framed “cabin” that was on the top of the tower’s stone base. It was constructed by Nick Nicholson, who was the first forest ranger in Georgia.
The cabin was operated by the US Forest Service until the early 1970s until it was taken out of service. The cabin was dismantled and the current wooden observation deck was constructed by the Youth Conversation Corps in its place.
Another fun fact from the Wikipedia page is that per Native American legend, Rabun Bald is inhabited by fire-breathing demon people. Some campers have reported hearing strange sounds throughout the night…
U.S Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Mark
At the summit of Rabun Bald, to the left of the stairs to the observation platform a reference mark for the U.S. Coast & Geodetic survey is affixed to a rock.
The reference mark contains the following inscription: “U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Mark” “NO. Rabun 2 1933” “For Information Write To the Director, Washington D.C.” “$250 Fine or Imprisonment For Disturbing This Mark”
U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Marker atop Rabun Bald – Set in 1933
Back before the times of GPS and modern surveying methods, these reference markers were placed at specific locations throughout the US. The markers were used for triangulation surveys, which were a way to establish angles and distances between various points. These measurements served as a basis for early map-making efforts across the United States.¹
The Geodetic Survey markers were typically set up in groups. In the triangulation method, a primary point was identified and deemed the “main station”. The reference mark for the main station was brass and contained a triangle emblem on the marker surface. Typically 3 other “triangulation stations” were set up for a given main station, and each of the triangulation station reference markers had an arrow (as seen in the photo above) that pointed back to the main station.¹
NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) maintains the National Geodetic Survey (NGS) and a national database for the associated reference markers. Each of the markers are assigned a unique identifier called a PIN or Permanent IDentifier. Each marker also has a “data sheet” that contains information about the marker and its history. The PIN for the reference mark on Rabun Bald is ED1439. To view a map of the reference markers visit the GPS on Bench Marks for the Transformation Tool and search for ‘ED1439’ or the National Geodetic Survey Data Explorer tool.
Driving Directions
To reach the trailhead at Beegum Gap, head north on GA 441 and pass through the town of Dillard. At the stoplight, take a right onto GA 246 / Dillard Rd and continue for approximately 7 miles.
Take a right onto Hale Ridge Rd where the Scaly Mountain Outdoor Center is located (you will see a hill with a tubing track on your right). Continue on Hale Ridge Rd, then take a right onto Bald Mountain Rd.
Take a right on Kelsey Mountain Road and continue slowly until you find a place to park on the side of Kelsey Mountain Rd. This is a popular hike, so parking spots may be limited on Kelsey Mountain Rd. There is no parking lot for the trailhead.
Rabun Bald Trailhead Parking on Kelsey Mountain Rd
Thanks for stopping by Southeast4x4trails.com! If you are looking for a detailed guide on how to install a GMRS mobile radio or a mobile Ham radio in your Jeep or off-road vehicle you have come to the right place. Keep reading for more details about this 5-part series on my off road radio install project.
If you have found your way here via Google, this site is about the Jeep, 4×4, and off-road community in the Southeast US. Check out the home page for an interactive Google map of trails, off-road parks, forest service roads, points of interest and more in the GA, TN, NC, and SC areas. The Journal has other articles similar to this one on topics of interest such as “how-to” guides, trails and places to visit, and local history. The Resources page has many links to mapping, GIS, USFS forest areas, and technical info.
This is the second in a series of 5 posts that detail the install of a Midland MXT400 MicroMobile GRMS radio and an Icom IC-2730A ham radio in my Jeep Wrangler TJ. You can adapt this information to any vehicle, it doesn’t have to be a Jeep TJ or even a Jeep!
This post will cover how I mounted both radios using a Smittybilt G.E.A.R overhead console and a set of custom made mounting brackets.
Part 1 includes a complete list of all the radio gear, tools, parts, and hardware that I used. The gear and parts that are used in this post are below as well.
If you want to jump directly to the install info just click one of the links below :
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
Gear and Parts List
The following gear and parts were used in this post:
Radio Gear ■ Smittybilt G.E.A.R Overhead Console for Jeep TJ (5665001) – Extreme Terrain – Quadratec ■ Midland MXT400 MicroMobile Two-Way GRMS Radio – Amazon ■ Icom IC-2730A VHF/UHF Dual Band Transceiver (Ham Radio) – Amazon ■ Icom MBA-4 Controller Mounting Bracket – (For Icom IC-2730A) – Ham Radio Outlet or GigaParts.com
Hardware ■ Everbilt #10-24 1.75″ Phillips Round Head Machine Screws (Qty: 2) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt #10-24 Flat Machine Screw Nuts (Qty: 6) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt #10 Inner Diameter (ID) x 5/16″ Outer Diameter (OD) x 1″ Aluminum Spacers (Qty: 2) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt #10-24 Nylon Lock Nuts (Qty: 2) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt Flat Aluminum Bar – 1″ (W) x 36″ (L) x 1/8″ (D) (Qty: 1) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt M4-0.7 x 15MM Socket Cap Screws (Qty: 4) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt M4-0.7 x 12MM Socket Cap Screws (Qty: 4) – Home Depot ■ Everbilt #8 Flat Nylon Washers (Qty: 24) – Home Depot
Paint & Primer: ■ Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Flat White Primer (7780830) – Amazon ■ Rust-Oleum Flat Black Protective Enamel (7776830) – Amazon ■ Rust-Oleum Universal Dead Flat Clear Durable Topcoat (342482) – Amazon
Tools ■ 7/32″ Milwaukee Cobalt Red Helix Hard Metal Drill Bit (48-89-2311) – Amazon ■ 5/32″ Milwaukee Cobalt Red Helix Hard Metal Drill Bit (48-89-4607) – Amazon ■ Electronic Digital Precision Caliper – Amazon (Optional) ■ Ryobi P340 One+ 18V Rotary Tool – Amazon (Optional) ■ Dremel MM485 Multi-Max Carbide Flush Cut Blade – Amazon (For Ryobi P340 Rotary Tool) ■ Ryobi P5231 One+ 18V Cordless Jigsaw – Amazon (Optional) ■ Bosch T121AF3 Jigsaw Blade for Metal – Amazon (For Ryobi P5321 Jigsaw) ■ Kreg KMA2900 Multi-Mark Tool – Amazon (Optional) ■ Harbor Freight Central Machinery 8″ 5-Speed Drill Press – Harbor Freight (Optional)
Radio System Guide & Wiring Diagram
The graphic below shows the entire radio system and how each component is connected and wired. All parts that are in front of the ‘Jeep Firewall’ box are mounted in the engine compartment. Click to download the diagram in PDF format.
Smittybilt G.E.A.R Overhead Console
The idea to base the radio mounts off of an overhead console came from the radio setup I had back in my first TJ, a 2000 Sport. Back then Tuffy Security Products made an overhead console that had 2 swing away doors that could be used to mount a CB. I also mounted my Icom IC-2800H ham radio on that overhead console and always liked the setup and where the radio display/controller was accessible but out of the way.
I came across the Smittybilt G.E.A.R overhead console while browsing parts one day, and figured it could be used to mount both the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio and the Icom IC-2730A ham radio I was planning to install. The console cover has an integrated MOLLE system (modular, lightweight load-carrying equipment) webbing that allows you to attach and configure MOLLE gear such as MOLLE pouches or attachments in a modular (however you want to) fashion.
If this term sounds somewhat familiar you have probably seen in the military as that is where it originated and was developed. Basically, you can place the attachments in different configurations to suit your storage needs. The additional storage space is a nice plus in a Jeep where storage can already be tight.
The construction of the Smittybilt overhead console is very strong and rigid. It consists of an overhead “main frame” which is solid metal and a 600 Denier polyester/nylon cover that wraps around the main frame. The MOLLE straps/webbing are on the cover. It also comes with 6 different MOLLE style pouches and the necessary mounting hardware. The rear of the overhead console main frame attaches to the center of the Jeep’s roll bar using metal clamp sleeves. The front of the main frame attaches to the windshield and footman loop with metal brackets. See the installation instructions for more details on all the parts and components.
To start, install the overhead main frame but do not cover it with the nylon MOLLE wrapper. You will need to attach the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket first.
1. Mark and Drill Holes for the Midland MXT400 Mounting Bracket
To determine the position of the holes for the mounting bracket align the bracket on the overhead console frame so that the radio face will be angled towards the driver. This will set the angle of the radio correctly so that it faces the driver’s seat.
This photo is after the mounting bracket was attached, but it illustrates the angle the mounting bracket should face
Hold the bracket against the overhead console frame with one hand and mark the position of the two holes shown on the bracket image below. Use a silver or other (similar) color Sharpie/pen to make the marks so they are easy to see against the black coating of the overhead console frame.
Photo by Midland USA
Next, use a 7/32″ drill bit that is suitable for metal to drill the first hole such as a Milwaukee Cobalt Red Helix Hard Metal bit. Using the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket, check the alignment of the hole by holding the bracket up and aligning the bracket with the hole. If you need to re-mark or adjust the position of the second hole, make a new mark while you are still holding the mounting bracket in place.
Note the lip on the side of the overhead console frame. This lip points down, which means that there is a gap between the top of the overhead console main frame and where the cover and MOLLE pouches actually sit when the cover is attached.
You can use aluminum spacers between the top of the overhead console frame and the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket to ensure a rigid installation of the bracket as shown in the steps below. This is important due to the constant vibration when driving off road – and so it isn’t generally annoying and bouncing around while you are on the trail.
2. Insert the Screws and Spacers for the Midland MXT400 Mounting Bracket
Tighten the first nut against the bottom of the overhead console frame, then tighten the second nut against the first. Once both nuts are tightened, check to make sure the screw is secured in place tightly and there is no play or wobble. Again, as mentioned above this is important due to the constant vibration when driving off-road. You don’t want the radios shaking around as it can damage them as well.
Now that the aluminum spacers are installed, place the nylon gear cover over the main frame and make sure it is tight using the velcro straps that attach on top of the overhead console main frame. You should be able to see the ends of each of the screws as shown below. Use a knife or other sharp object to make two small holes in the gear cover where the screws are located – just large enough for the end of the screw to pass through the cover.
Loosen the nylon gear cover and the two flat nuts that are holding the aluminum spacers in place. Slip the ends of both screws through the two holes you just made, then replace the flat nuts onto the screws from the outside of the gear cover. This will secure the aluminum spacers in place.
It’s easier if you just loosen the gear cover enough to slip the screws through the holes instead of fully removing the cover then trying to re-attach it with the screws in place.
Use two #10-24 flat machine screw nuts per screw/spacer to secure the screws and spacers in place similar to the mounting screws in step 2.
You can now install the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket. Position it in place using the screw positions on the bracket as shown in step 1. Use two #10-24 nylon lock nuts to attach the bracket to the mounting screws. These nuts are vibration-resistant – they will help hold the bracket nice and tight against the mounting screws/spacers.
4. Test Fit the Midland MXT400
Test fit the Midland MXT400 in the mounting bracket and make sure everything is nice, tight and secure. There are 3 different screw positions on the rear of the mounting bracket that allow you to adjust the radio body in an up, neutral or down position. Try each and determine which position you like best.
5. Measure for the Icom IC-2730A Mounting Brackets
With the MXT400 in place, it’s time to make some custom mounting brackets for the Icom IC-2730A. As you can see in the photos in part 1 of the series, these custom brackets allow the Icom IC-2730A to sit directly under the Midland MXT400.
Before we jump into the details of how to measure for the brackets, let’s talk about materials. The brackets for the Icom IC-2730A are made out of solid flat aluminum bar stock that you can buy at Home Depot or a similar home improvement, hardware, or metal supply store. The idea for this project was to use materials that were readily available and did not require specialty metalworking tools other than those you might already have or can buy at home improvement stores. I don’t have that many metalworking tools, so that is the reason why I went with this approach.
I first attempted to make these brackets out of 2″ flat aluminum bar stock only to find out that they were too wide when all 4 brackets are mounted, so the final versions were made out of 1″ flat aluminum bar stock. Some of the photos below show the 2″ bar stock because those are the pictures I had for a given step, but the same concepts apply with regards to how to measure and make the brackets.
The easiest way to fabricate the brackets is to make paper templates first, then use the templates to mark and drill the holes in the brackets. To make this task a bit easier, the drawing below contains the exact measurements for the brackets that I made.
You can also download this template using the link below. I have set the PDF file to print to actual size, but I would suggest double-checking the measurements on the template after you print it and before you make any cuts. Using a pair of precision calipers will help make measuring quick and easy.
6. Mark the Overall Dimensions on the Paper Template
The overall bracket dimensions are 3.5″ long by 1″ wide. Mark these dimensions on a piece of paper and cut it out. Also, mark the center of the template at 0.5″ (vertical – half the width of the template) on the top and bottom sides. If you want more space between the Midland MXT400 and Icom IC-2730A make the length of the bracket longer. If you use my bracket dimensions the two radios will be about 1/4″ apart at the front of the radio bodies where the displays are.
Ignore the width of the template in the photo below. It was for one of the 2″ wide brackets that I made.
7. Mark the Midland MXT400 and Icom IC-2730A Measurements
Next, align the template with the top of the Midland MTX400 radio body and mark the position of the mounting screw/hole. It should be about 0.7340″ (~3/4″) from the top of the radio body/paper template.
Measure from the center of the mounting screw/hole to the bottom of the Midland MXT400 radio body and mark that dimension on the paper template.
Decide how much space you want to have between the bottom of the Midland MXT400 radio body and the top of the Icom IC-2730A radio body (1/4″, 1/2″, etc). Measure that distance from the mark you made for the bottom of the Midland MXT400 radio body and mark it on the template. This mark will align to the top of the Icom IC-2730A radio body.
Now measure from the top of the Icom IC-2730A radio body to the center of the mounting screw/hole and mark it on the paper template. The distance from the center of the mounting hole to the bottom of the bracket should be 0.4375″ to the bottom of the bracket. Also, mark the bottom of the Icom IC-2730A radio body on the template as well.
Once all of your measurements are marked on the paper template, it should look pretty close to the photo below.
8. Test Fit the Paper Template
Both radios use M4-0.7 socket cap screws in the mounting holes. Use one of those screws to make holes in the paper template where the mounting screws are located. Just put something semi-rigid under the paper template and gently push the M4 screw through the paper to make a clean hole.
Next, carefully slide the paper template over one of the mounting screws on the Midland MXT400. Hold the Icom IC-2730A radio body in one hand and align the mounting screw hole with the bottom hole in the paper template and check for proper fit and the desired space between the two radio bodies. This is much easier to do with 2 people, but you can manage to do it with one person as I did.
Try to not tear a hole in the template like I did on the top mounting screw
9. Transfer Paper Template Measurements to the Aluminum Brackets
Make a mark at 0.5″ (vertical – half the width of the bar stock) on the top and bottom of the bracket. Use your paper template and a straightedge to transfer the measurement marks from the paper template to the metal bracket. My favorite straightedge tool for tasks such as this is the very handy Kreg KMA2900 Multi-Mark tool.
Align the measurement marks on your paper template with the straightedge blade – the tool in the photo is the Kreg KMA2900 Multi-Mark
Ignore the width of this bracket (2″ and not 1″) – it shows how the measurement marks are transferred from the paper template
10. Drill Holes for Mounting Screws in Metal Brackets
Similar to cutting the metal brackets, drilling the holes for the mounting screws in each bracket and keeping them in alignment can be a challenge depending on what tools you use. It’s important that all of the holes for the mounting screws align and are in the same position across all 4 brackets. If they are not aligned, the radio bodies will not sit evenly. You don’t want the holes to look like the photo below. This was one of my first attempts at the bracket and I tried to drill the holes with a regular hand drill.
The easiest and most consistent way to drill the holes is to use a drill press. I didn’t own one when I started this project but ended up picking up a Harbor Freight Central Machinery 8″ 5-speed drill press which is good enough for home and hobby use. As of the time of this post, it is on sale for $54.99 – which was worth it alone just to save the frustration of trying to drill the holes consistently using a hand drill.
You can simply secure the metal bracket piece to the drill press table, lower the press spindle and place the drill bit exactly where you want it. Drill the holes in one bracket, then use that bracket as a guide to drill the holes in the other 3 brackets.
Aluminum is a very soft metal so the drill press method melts right through it and makes a clean hole
If you do plan to use a hand drill, you can improve the accuracy of the holes by clamping the metal bracket to a piece of wood and securing it in place with a caliper or bar clamp as shown below. Drill the holes in the first bracket, then use it as a guide to drill the holes in the remaining 3 brackets.
I would also suggest using a metal center punch to help keep the drill bit in the correct place. Use the punch to make an impression on the bracket where both of the mounting screw holes are. This will help keep the drill bit at the center of the hole and from sliding around on the bracket. When you start drilling the hole, rotate the drill bit slowly at first and then speed it up as the bit removes the metal.
11. Test Fit the Mounting Brackets
Now that the brackets are cut and all the holes for the mounting screws are drilled it’s time to test fit the brackets. You will need 2 sets of the Everbilt M4-0.7 socket cap screws and 5 sets of Everbilt #8 flat nylon washers.
The width of the Icom IC-2730A radio body is wider than the radio body of the Midland MXT400. I used Everbilt #8 flat nylon washers to make the mounting brackets fit flush against both radios.
Gather the following hardware for each radio before you test fit the brackets:
Remove the mounting screws that came with the Midland MXT400. Attach each of the new mounting brackets using 4 nylon washers between the inside of the new mounting brackets and the outside of the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket. Secure each bracket in place with a nylon washer on the outside of the bracket and an M4-0.7 x 15mm socket cap screw, finger tight for now.
Hold the Icom IC-2730A radio body in one hand and attach it to the mounting brackets. Use a nylon washer on the outside of the bracket and M4-0.7 x 12MM socket cap screws. You do not need any nylon washers on the inside of the bracket.
Check for proper fit, alignment, and spacing once both radios are mounted. You can adjust the tilt angle of the Midland MXT400 by moving the rear mounting screws to different positions within the 3 notches at the rear of the Midland MXT400 mounting bracket (see the photo of this bracket at the top of the post) for reference.
Once you are happy with the fit, remove all of the mounting hardware. It’s time to prep, paint, and finish the mounting brackets.
12. Prepare and Paint the Mounting Brackets
I used the following primer, paint and clear topcoat:
The instructions on the can for the flat white primer and flat black protective enamel state to “hold can upright 10-16″ from the surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke. Keep the can the same distance from the surface. Keep the can in motion while spraying. Apply 2 or more lights coats a few minutes apart.”
The instructions on the can for the dead flat clear coat state to “Hold can upright 8-12″ from surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion slightly overlapping each stroke. Keep the can the same distance from the surface. Keep the can in motion while spraying. Apply 3 or more light coats continuously, spraying off the surface with each coat. For best results, apply multiple light coats versus one heavy coat.”
I followed those instructions and sprayed 4 coats (each) of the primer, flat black protective enamel, and clear topcoat. I did each coat about 30-45 minutes apart and then let the paint dry overnight before mounting the brackets. Keep the outside temperature in mind with regards to the dry time, it was July in GA (90+ degrees) when I painted them.
Ignore the masking tape – cover the entire bracket with primer and paintIgnore the second hole at the bottom of the bracket. The hole at the very bottom is the correct one to use. I had to drill two sets of holes to move the Icom IC-2730A further down and I didn’t want to make a new set of brackets.
13. Prepare and Paint Nylon Washers
The nylon washers are white, so I painted them black so they blend in better with the black mounting brackets. This can be a little tricky – if you just set the spacers down on a surface and try to paint them the propellant from the spray paint will blow the washers all over the place. I used 4 pieces of blue masking tape and stuck each one of the spacers to the tape, then applied the primer and paint coats. I held the can further away from the washers when painting them to try and reduce the effect of the propellant.
Let the primer, paint, and clear topcoat fully dry before you remove the washers from the tape. I used the tip of a Xacto knife blade to gently lift each spacer and separate it from the tape so the paint did not peel away from the washer and stick to the masking tape adhesive.
14. Wrapping Up
Reassemble the radios, painted mounting brackets and painted nylon washers and you are done!
Up Next – Part 3
Part 3 of this series covers the installation of the radio antennas and mounting brackets so be sure to check it out next!
This is a preview of the completed project – the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio is the top and the Icom IC-2730A Ham radio is on the bottom.
Thanks for stopping by Southeast4x4trails.com! If you are looking for a detailed guide on how to install a GMRS radio or Ham radio in your Jeep or off-road vehicle you have come to the right place. Keep reading for more details about this 5-part series on my radio install project.
If you have found your way here via Google, this site is about the Jeep, 4×4, and off-road community in the Southeast US. Check out the home page for an interactive Google map of trails, off-road parks, forest service roads, points of interest and more in the GA, TN, NC, and SC areas. The Journal has other articles similar to this one on topics of interest such as “how-to” guides, trails and places to visit, and local history. The Resources page has many links to mapping, GIS, USFS forest areas, and technical info.
This is the first in a series of 5 posts that detail the install of a Midland MXT400 MicroMobile GRMS radio and Icom IC-2730A ham radio in my Jeep Wrangler TJ. You can adapt this information to any vehicle, it doesn’t have to be a Jeep TJ or even a Jeep!
This post will cover the background on the project, why I chose these 2 radios, and includes a complete list of all of the gear, tools, and parts that I used in this project.
If you want to jump directly to the install info just click one of the links below:
If you are not familiar with GMRS, it stands for General Mobile Radio Service. GRMS radios are widely used for short-to-medium distance two-way voice communication in the 462-467 MHz FM frequency range.
The use of GMRS/FRS radios in the off-road world has been growing every year. Simply put, these radios are a considerable improvement over older CB radios because they can operate at higher power levels (1-50 watts) and broadcast an FM signal. Higher power levels translate into much better voice quality and range (distance) as compared to CB radios, which operate on AM frequencies between 26-27 MHz at 1-4 watts. In fact, Midland is the official communications sponsor for the 2020 Jeep Jamboree USA. Jeep has also announced that all communications for the 2021 Jeep Jamboree USA will be on GRMS/FRS frequencies and no CB frequencies. This article about the Jeep Jamboree does a good job of outlining the key factors in the shift towards GMRS/FRS radios.
Use of GMRS radios is licensed in the US by the FCC, but it doesn’t require a test like the Amateur Radio (Ham) services does. You can purchase a GMRS license directly on the FCC Universal Licensing System (ULS) website. The cost is $70 for 10 years and it covers anyone in your immediate family in addition to yourself. That means your wife/huband and kids can all legally operate GMRS radios under one license. You will be issued a call sign by the FCC when the license is granted (mine is WHRT850). Check out this page at ITS Tactical and Wikipedia for more info on GMRS radios.
FRS stands for Family Radio Service. FRS radios are permitted to transmit on the same frequencies that GRMS radios operate on. No FCC license is required to operate FRS radios, however. For more details about the difference between GMRS and FRS radios see the next section below – GMRS and FRS – What’s the Difference?
Amateur radio or “ham” radio is it is commonly known requires an FCC license (my call sign is KG4LNA) to operate legally. There are a number of different bands within the larger radio spectrum that are dedicated to ham radio operation. Two of the most popular bands are the 2 meter and 70 cm bands which someone with the entry-level technician license can operate on. The Icom IC-2730A radio featured in this post is a dual-band radio that can operate on both of these bands.
I mainly use my ham radio for backup and emergency communications. There are many ham radio repeaters around the country. If you are able to reach one of these repeaters while out on the trail or in the backcountry a repeater has the ability to re-broadcast (repeat) your signal at higher power and distance that you would be able to reach if just talking from one ham radio to another (simplex mode). To learn more about ham radio take a look at this page from the AARL.
GMRS and FRS – What’s the Difference?
GMRS and FRS radios share a total of 22 dedicated channels in the 462.5625 to 467.7250 frequency range. Each of these frequencies are labeled as a channel – 1 to 22. Both GRMS and FRS radios can operate on any of the channels, but the power output for FRS radios is capped at 2 watts for channels 1-7 and 15-22 and 0.5 watts for channels 8-14.
GRMS radios are capped at 5 watts for channels 1-7, 0.5 watts for channels 8-14, and 50 watts for channels 15-22. Channels 15-22 also permit the operation of GMRS repeaters which can greatly extend the signal distance and coverage if a GMRS radio has repeater capability. This is very similar to repeaters that operate on the ham bands as mentioned above.
No license is required to operate on FRS channels/frequencies. FRS radios are also required by law to have a non-removable or fixed antenna and the radio cannot be modified to operate at higher power outputs than specified by the FCC for a given channel. FRS radios are often “walkie-talkie” types that are sold together as a pair. GMRS radios can utilize a non-fixed external antenna to extend their operating range. The following pages on RadioReference.com detail FRS and GRMS channel specifics and also have a combined channel chart.
Project Background and Details
This radio install project started with just the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio. I installed it in my Jeep and mounted the antenna on the tire carrier rear bumper. One Google search lead to another while I was doing the install, and after a couple of hours reading forum posts on RadioReference.com I came to understand that mounting any radio antenna on the rear of a Jeep Wrangler is not a good choice if you want to maximize the signal range, quality of your radio communicationsand the radio’s overall performance.
Why? Because typically there are multiple obstructions in the rear of Jeep (tire carrier, hard/soft top, other radio antennas, etc.) that affect the path and emissions of the RF waves that your radio antenna transmits. It alters the radio wave propagation pattern which means it impacts (makes it worse) the radio’s performance.
As I was doing my research on the best place to mount the radio antennas I posted a question on the Amateur Radio Antenna sub-forum on RadioReference.com. I was fortunate enough to have several very, very knowledgable, and helpful people respond to my post and help me figure out an installation plan that would be the best for my Jeep and communication goals. The simple install for the Midland MXT400 turned into a full-blown project and grew to include the Icom IC-2730A ham radio and even my Uniden SDS100 radio scanner.
Between the time that I spent researching the radios and associated gear, reading threads on forums, discussing the plan with others on the thread that I started on RadioReference.com I spent over 40 hours alone just planning out the entire installation project. This is before I even started the install work. This series of posts will walk you through each step of the install and will literally save you many hours of research and planning (and some frustration too). I’m sharing it for the benefit of others because I would have loved to come across the information as I put my project together.
If you would like to read the original forum post and all the responses, take a look at Multiple Antenna Question for 2M/70CM. It also details information about the antenna install for my Uniden SDS100 scanner. You can also find more information about why mounting any antenna in the rear of a Jeep is not a good idea on this thread on jk-forum.com.
Why the Midland MXT400?
I have several handheld radios that are capable of operating on GRMS frequencies. These handheld radios often operate at a lower power output such as 4 or even 1 watt, and I knew that I wanted a GMRS radio that was capable of higher power output to maximize range on the trail. I also wanted a permanently mounted radio in the Jeep as well. After looking at several different mobile GMRS radios and reading reviews the Midland brand was showed up in many of the reviews or articles and the comments were generally favorable of their products.
The Midland MXT400 has a max output of 40 watts. It also does not require any programming. All of the GMRS and FRS radio channels are pre-programmed right out of the box. You simply turn the dial on the radio to set the channel you want to operate on.
It is also compatible with other radios (such as Midland’s) that can transmit on GMRS or FRS frequencies. If others in your group don’t have a GMRS license, they can use an FRS radio legally and the MXT400 will work seamlessly with those radios.
The MXT400 also has the capability to use PL Tone (CTCSS) and DCS codes. These codes are set to the same values on both radios, and the only way anyone else using the same frequency will be able to receive your communications is if they also have the same PL Tone or DCS code set that you are using. Midland refers to these codes as “privacy codes”. For more information on these codes see pages 17 and 26 in the MXT400 owner’s manual.
Why the Icom IC-2730A?
The Icom IC-2730A is a dual-band VHF and UHF radio. It can transmit at up to 50 watts on the 2-meter ham band (VHF) between frequencies 144-148 MHz and 70 cm ham band (UHF) from 430-450 MHz. It has dual watch/dual receive capabilities, which means that it can receive signals on either band simultaneously. This is useful if you want to stay tuned to a specific frequency such as a repeater or simplex (say a 2-meter frequency) but also want the ability to receive or scan frequencies on another band (say a 70 cm frequency). The radio has 2 sets of controls – one for each band (volume, squelch, etc.) You can scan a bank of frequencies that are programmed into the radio while the other frequency is stationary.
The IC-2730A also has a large channel memory at 1,000 channels. This was important to me as I have my IC-2730A programmed with both 2-meter and 70 cm repeaters in GA, TN, NC and SC. This adds up to about 800 different frequencies across all 4 states. I printed out a list of all the programmed channels along with their name and location, and I keep this with me in my Jeep. That way I don’t have to program the radio every time I go to a different state, I can just set the radio to scan mode for the bank of channels that are in the vicinity of my location.
I compared several 2-meter/70 cm dual-band radios from other companies such as Kenwood, Yaesu, and Alinco and felt that the price and feature set of the IC-2730A was the best value. Several of these other radios were in the $300-$550 dollar range. The controller (display) on the IC-2730A can be mounted either on the radio main unit with the Icom MBA-4 or remotely from the radio main unit with the MBA-5 controller bracket and MBF-1 remote mounting base. I knew that I wanted to mount the controller display to the main radio unit, so I also purchased the MBA-4 bracket.
The display is also easy to see. The frequency numbers are large and visible at a glance. That was important to me as I mounted the radio just outside of my direct line of sight. Another plus is that the radio’s receive frequency range allows it to operate as a wideband receiver covering aviation, marine, and weather radio frequencies between 118-174 and 375-550 MHz. It is also fairly easy to program with a computer using the RT SystemsUSB-29A programming cable and WCS-2730 software once you get the hang of how the software works.
Wrapping Up
I am by no means a GMRS or Ham radio expert. I learned a lot (really, a lot) about radios, antennas, and electrical concepts in general throughout this project. I’m sharing what I learned with you and hopefully you will find it useful. If you have questions please post a comment and I’ll do my best to respond. The RadioReference.com forums are a great source of information and help as well.
I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items below through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
Laird SBT3400 NMO Straight Antenna Mounting Bracket (Qty: 4) – Antenna Farm ■ NOTE: This straight-style bracket will NOT work with a Jeep JK or JL. You will need a JK or JL-specific bracket with a 3/4″ NMO hole such as this one from Antenna Farm or Topsy Products.
I recently installed a Midland MXT400 GMRS radio in my TJ and needed to pass the power wiring through the firewall. I found a helpful article on Quadratech’s website about using a Daystar Universal Firewall Boot in an existing firewall hole. When I test fit the boot I wasn’t 100% happy with the fit – so I decided to add an additional step and use the existing firewall hole plug with the Daystar boot. It worked perfectly.
Please note that this method is specific to TJ’s with a manual transmission. If your TJ is automatic it will have the automatic transmission shifter cable running through the hole that I used.
1. Locate the Existing Firewall Hole and Remove the Plug
If you look under the front dashboard on the driver’s side you will see the existing hole up and to the right of the gas pedal. Use a rigid object or your finger to push the existing plug out. The hole exits the firewall down and to the right of the air intake manifold in the engine compartment.
2. Drill a 1-1/4″ Hole in the Firewall Plug
Using the existing plug allows you to get a much tighter/snug fit than using just the Daystar boot. When I first test fit the Daystar boot in this hole it did not fight tightly and I was worried about it shaking loose easily.
I marked the center of the plug and used the pilot bit in the Milwaukee 1-1/4” hole saw to start the cut. Once the actual hole saw teeth reached the rubber I held onto the plug tightly and keep drilling the hole slowly until it cut all the way through. Watch the drill bit teeth if you do it this way as the torque of the drill can easily pull the plug out of your hand.
3. Pass the Daystar Boot Through the Plug
Once the hole is cut simply slide the Daystar boot through the hole in the plug.
I saw the boot mounted two ways in various photos online. One way where the small (hole) end of the boot is facing into the engine compartment or where the small end is facing the interior of the cab. I chose to mount it with the small end of the boot facing the engine compartment as it seemed like the boot may collect water or rain if facing towards the interior of the cab.
4. Run Your Wiring Through the Boot
That is it – now you are ready to pass your wiring through the boot with a nice tight seal!
This is a photo of the power cable for my Midland GRMS radio going through the boot. I used 3/8” electric flex tubing to protect the power cable then cut a piece of 1/2” electrical flex tubing and wrapped it around the small end of the boot and secured it with a zip tie.
2 new journal posts, USFS forest service roads, points of interest and campgrounds have been added to the map. The new GPS route starts in Dillard, GA and covers USFS and paved roads to Helen, GA. Click this link to go directly to the page for this route.
The points on this map are a collection of places I have visited and also that others have shared. Please respect the property rights of others and do not trespass on privately owned property or on trails or roads that are closed. The points with a gray pin are closed or inactive. When planning to travel on USFS Forest Service Roads always check the status of the road at the USFS Visitor Map as some roads are closed seasonally and some are open year-round. You can also check the USFS Forest Service Road Google Map for road status as well.
I try to keep the map updated to note when a trail or road is closed, but please reply to this e-mail or send me a message via the form on the ‘About’ page if you visit a point on the map that needs to be updated.
You can find any of the points in this e-mail by clicking the magnifying glass (search) icon on the map legend on the left-hand side of the map on the main page and typing in the name of the point.
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items above through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
My TJ is a 2004 model year.
Instructions
1. Connect Wiring Harness(es)
Connect the Atoto A6 wiring harness to the Meta Jeep TJ wiring harness. The colors on both harnesses match up almost 100%.
Use 22-18 gauge wire connectors/crimps. I also used 1/8 – 1/4” heat shrink tubing to protect the connectors in case they get wet. Simply match the wires below from the ATOTO harness to the Metra harness and connect them with a wire connector/crimp. Cut a piece of the heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the wire connection and a portion of the wires on either side of the connector. Put the heat shrink tubing on a wire first before attaching with a wire connector.
You may use some of the wires in the “Not Used” section such as the Rear Camera or Parking Brake depending on which accessories you install. These are the wires that I did not use on my install.
2. Remove Center Dash Bezel
Carefully remove the center dash bezel. If you have not removed it before you can easily find instructions online or you can purchase the Crutchfield MasterSheet which provides step by step instruction on how to remove the center dash bezel (link above in the parts list).
You also will need to re-use the existing air (heat and A/C) vents from the original dash. To remove both vents, gently push them from the inside of the bezel until they slide out. They are held in place by a grooved recess on both sides of each vent. Once they are removed, transfer both vents to the new Metra double-DIN dash by inserting and pushing them into place from the outside of the bezel.
TIP: When you pull the center dash bezel off pull it slowly so you do not damage the 4 retaining clips that keep it attached to the dash. Once the bezel is removed, pull the 4 clips off of the bezel and set them aside. You will reuse them when you install the new Metra double-DIN dash bezel.
3. Remove Radio
Remove the 4 screws that retain your existing radio. Detach it from the existing wiring harness and remove the antenna connector.
4. Detach the Heat and A/C Control Bezel
Remove the screws that retain the heat, A/C and fan controls. Gently pull the assembly forward. You want it to be as out-of-the-way as possible while trimming the dash pieces so the double-DIN stereo will fit.
I did not detach any of the plugs that attach to the controls on the bezel.
5. Test Fit the ATOTO A6 in the New Metra Double-DIN Dash Bezel
Make sure the ATOTO unit fits snugly in the new Metra double-DIN dash bezel and check that there are no gaps between the outer edge of the ATOTO unit and the dash bezel. It fits very well, so you should not have any issues.
6. Remove the Lower Tray / Support
You will need to remove the plastic lower tray to make room for the ATOTO unit.
Start by pushing the wires that are towards the rear of the dash as out-of-the way as you can. Take your time while cutting the plastic and be EXTRA CAREFUL to not cut or nick any of these wires.
Start by cutting the right side first. I used a small hack saw instead of a powered device so I could go slowly and make sure I didn’t hit or cut any of the dash wires. Cut the “top” or “flat” part first as shown in the photo below.
Once the top/flat piece is cut, then cut at an angle to remove the remaining piece of the tray.
These photos give you another view of the angles to cut and what it looks like once the cuts are complete:
Repeat the process on the left side of the lower tray. Notes that one of the wiring harnesses attaches to the back of the tray on the left side. Disconnect the plastic retaining clip and push the harness as far out of the way as you can.
Depending on your cuts, you may need to do some final trimming once the lower tray is removed. Note the areas in the photo below that are not completely cut.
Once both sides are cut, remove the tray and it will look like this:
7. Remove Upper Plastic Support
My TJ is a 2004 and it also had a plastic piece above the radio that appears to have helped stabilized the factory stereo unit. I attempted to test fit the ATOTO unit without removing this piece, but it would not fit properly as the two tabs towards the rear of the piece pushed the ATOTO stereo down and the mounting holes would not line up properly.
I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off attachment to first remove the two tabs to see if that was enough (it wasn’t, read on):
After the two tabs were cut off, I switched to a Ryobi rotary tool with a cutting blade to make the remaining cuts:
And it should look similar to this once the top piece is removed:
8. Attach Mounting Brackets to ATOTO Unit
The Metra double-DIN dash kit comes with the required 2 mounting brackets for a double-DIN size stereo. I tried probably 10 different bracket and screw placements before I found the combination that allowed the ATOTO unit to fit just right in the dash and line up with the new dash bezel.
Here is the final bracket and screw placement that I used:
Note that the mounting brackets will extend slightly below the bottom of the ATOTO unit. The brackets also rest on top of 2 screws on each side of the unit.
9. Test Fit the ATOTO Unit and the Metra Double-DIN Dash Bezel
Before you plug in all of the wires and connections, place the ATOTO unit into the dash and secure it with the mounting screws. Make sure that it fits nice and easy with no resistance — you should be able to slide it in with one hand and line up the mounting brackets with their screws. If you are not able to then you most likely need to do some more trimming of the plastic pieces.
You may need to position the screw holes on each side of the Metra mounting brackets one at a time. For example, attach the upper left screw first, then do the same for the others until all 4 screws are lined up and tightened.
TIP: Do not attach the retaining clips that you removed from the original dash bezel to the new Metra dash bezel yet. This makes it easier to slide the center bezel on and off if you need to make fit adjustments.
10. Connect All Wiring and the Antenna
After you have test fit the ATOTO unit, remove it and connect all of the wiring and the Metra antenna adapter. You will have connections for the ATOTO wiring harness, the USB input cable, GPS antenna and Wifi antenna.
11. Run Wires for the GPS and WiFi Antennas
I placed the GPS and Wifi antennas on the windshield right above the the top dash trim piece. This keeps them out of the way, but also provides good reception. I cleaned the area on the windshield where I attached them with an alcohol wipe pad first.
I have also heard of others installing these two antennas on the heat/air vents that are right under the center dash bezel if you prefer to have them hidden from sight.
12. Re-Install the ATOTO Unit and the Metra Dash Bezel
Reinstall the ATOTO unit once all wires are connected. Attach the dash retaining clips to the new Metra double-DIN center dash bezel and re-install all of the dash trim screws.
And you are done! The photo at the top of the post shows the completed installation.
Having a backup copy of paper maps is always a good idea for any trip in remote areas. You never know when your electronic devices may fail, run out of battery or have other issues. I recently spent some time trying to figure out the best way to print USGS (US Geological Survey) topographic quad maps on paper, and after testing a couple of different methods I settled on one – printing the maps full size at Staples.com.
I compared the prices to print the maps at full resolution and quotes ranged from $35+ per map at FedEx Kinkos to $5.94 at Staples… Yes, that is correct. Printed full-size on 24” x 36” paper was only $5.94 at Staples. The map is printed on regular paper, not waterproof paper like Tyvek, but if you are using the maps for backup and have a safe and dry place to store them regular paper should work fine.
I used the GeoPDF format for a local USGS quad to test the process. You can download either GeoPDF or GeoTIFF (image) files directly from the USGS or USFS websites. Here are the links to both sites:
Click ‘US Topo Current’ for the current map generation
Click ‘7.5 x 7.5 Minute’ (current USGS map standard size)
Click ‘GeoPDF’ for a map in PDF format
Each one of the squares on the map is an individual topo map. The name of the map is displayed in the center of the square
Next, search for available maps and download them:
Click ‘Find Products’ in the window that appears above the map pin
You will see the number of matching results (maps) in the ‘Available Products’ window that appears on the left – click the ‘results’ link
The available maps will display, click ‘Download’
You can also see historical (older) maps for the area by clicking the ‘results’ link in the ‘Historical Topographic Maps’ section of the ‘Available’ Products’ window
Note the format and size of the map file (EX: GeoPDF, 29.85 MB)
Click on the map image (the actual topo map displays)
Click the download link for either format – ‘Download PDF’ or ‘Download GeoTiff’
Next, head over to staples.com to create a printing project
From the navigation bar click ‘Document Printing’ > ‘Blueprints
Click ‘Start Project’
Select the map file(s) to upload for printing
NOTE: These files are typically large (30-100+ MB) so it may take some time to upload depending on your internet connection
Make the following selections on the preview screen
Paper Size – 24” x 36” (width x length)
Uncheck ‘Scale to Fit’ (this will print the map at its native size/resolution and not scale it to make it larger so it fits the entire page)
NOTE: It’s a good idea to double-check the physical size of the map PDF document to make sure the paper size you select will accommodate the entire map. You can do this either by viewing the file’s properties or opening it in Adobe Acrobat reader and clicking ‘Properties’ from the ‘File menu
NOTE: Some of the USGS topo quad maps also include a layer for satellite imagery. It usually appears to not be on by default, but if you see the satellite imagery in your map print preview try opening the file with Adobe Acrobat reader and checking the layers to make sure the imagery layer is set to off
Select ‘Color Ink’
Note the price – $5.94!!
Complete the next 2 screens to select pickup in store or delivery and submit the order. I submitted my order around 9AM and it was ready by 6:30pm the same day.
I recently replaced the rear Dana 44 axle in my TJ. I spent a decent amount of time reading Facebook group and forum posts about what coating is the best to use when refinishing an axle. Suggestions included high-temperature spray paint, powder coating or POR-15. I have used spray paint before but wanted to use a coating that would hopefully be more durable long-term, so I decided to go with POR-15.
POR-15 markets itself as an automotive and industrial coating that is tough, does not crack, chip or peel and permanently stops rust as well. I also liked that the suggested application process included a cleaner/degreaser and metal prep solution that goes on first before the POR-15 coating itself since preparation is often the key to getting a good end result. You can read more about the application process on the POR-15 website.
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items above through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
One downside to POR-15 is that isn’t cheap. On Amazon the Cleaner Degreaser, Metal Prep, POR-15 and Top Coat are about $109 together. Most of the comments or reviews I read did say that it’s worth the price as it holds up well long term.
Here is the axle they day I picked it up. Rusty like most junkyard axles tend to be.
I had the axle sandblasted at a local shop, ProCryo in Cumming, GA. This is the best $50 I ever spent. It would have taken hours with an angle grinder and wire brush to get it anywhere near this clean.
Before I started the POR-15 application process I used plastic bags and tape to wrap and protect the locker switch cable, the locker air input nozzle on the top of the housing and the brake line inputs (see photos below for reference).
The first step in the preparation process is to apply the POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser: ■ Mix the cleaner degreaser in a container (4:1 – 36 oz water to 8 oz cleaner degreaser) ■ Brush the mixture on with a paintbrush ■ Cover the axle multiple times on the top and bottom ■ Wash it off with water
Next, apply the POR-15 Metal Prep: ■ I poured the Metal Prep into a 32 oz Zep chemical sprayer bottle and covered the axle generously ■ Keep applying the Metal Prep to the axle for a period of 20 minutes ■ Wash it off with water after 20 minutes ■ Pat the axle dry with paper towels ■ Let the axle dry for 1-2 hours so it is “bone dry” before applying the POR-15 coating
POR-15 recommends that you apply 2 light coats of the POR-15 Rust Preventative coating. Here are a couple of tips on how to do that based on my experience:
First, USE GLOVES. This stuff does not come off by scrubbing with soap and water or other cleaners. It basically has to wear off if you get it on your skin
Use a decent quality paintbrush like the Home Depot “Best” 2 Inch Trylon Thin Angle Brush
I actually used a new brush for each coat – both for the POR-15 Rust Preventative coating and the POR-15 Top Coat
Yes, at $8 per brush it is a bit expensive to use a new brush for each coat but I didn’t want to deal with a stiff brush after it dried between coats. I wasn’t sure what kind of cleaner to use on the brush or how it would affect the POR-15 if the brush was cleaned with another chemical and re-used
Pour a small quantity of the POR-15 Rust Preventative coating into a small container such as the Home Depot 1 Quart Mixing Bucket
Mix by stirring in the can before use – do not shake to stir
This stuff goes a long way and is easily spreadable – start with a small amount and pour more into the mixing bucket as needed
Make sure you re-seal the POR-15 Rust Preventative coating after you pour it into the mixing bucket. The coating actually will dry in it’s can if you don’t – it is cured by moisture humidity
Start applying by dipping just the tip of the paintbrush into the POR-15 and apply to the axle
Take your time applying it so you don’t get drips or runs
Let the first coat dry overnight or a similar time period
The 2nd coat goes on a bit faster, so start with a little bit on your brush and add more to the coat as needed
The 2nd coat feels “slicker” when applying as it’s going on top of POR-15 and not bare metal
I did 2 coats with the top of the axle housing pointing up, then two coats with the top of the housing pointing towards the ground. It took me 4 days to apply all 4 coats since I let each coat dry overnight each time.
Here is what the axle looked like after applying both coats of POR-15:
The last step is to apply the POR-15 Top Coat. The Top Coat protects the POR-15 from break down that can occur from the sun’s UV rays.
Apply 2 light coats of the POR-15 Top Coat in the same way that you do with the POR-15 coating
I also used a new brush for each of the Top Coat layers
Let each coat dry overnight
And here is the finished product, ready to install!
