Places + Trails Archives - Southeast 4x4 Trails

Written by Colby

Judaculla Rock
552 Judaculla Rock Rd
Cullowhee, NC 28723
Jackson County
Nantahala National Forest

Near Sylva, NC & Western North Caroline University

Coordinates:
N 35.30126, W -83.11021

Click the sidebar on the map for more information

The information on this page is adapted from the educational signs at the Judaculla Rock site and from the websites that are referenced below. I have paraphrased it here to tell the story of this important historical and cultural place. It is not an original work of my own. Please visit the Blue Ridge Heritage Trail site or Jackson County NC Recreation/Parks Department for more information.

As the Cherokee Indian legend is told, Judaculla was a god of the spirit world and the master of all game animals. He lived high atop Tanasee Bald within the Great Balsam Mountain range, and from the next mountain top over upon his “judgment seat” he presided over all who partook in the hunting of his game. Judaculla’s Judgement Seat is known as the Devil’s Courthouse today. ¹

One day a group of disrespectful hunters passed through his land, and Judaculla jumped down from his judgment seat high in the mountains and landed on a large boulder in the Caney Fork valley (at a distance of over 10 miles and an elevation change of 3,200 feet).¹

As Judaculla landed on the boulder, he put his hand down to steady himself which left an impression on the rock’s surface. He also drew a sharp line across the face of the rock with the nail of his right index finger to remind anyone that harm would come to those who crossed the line without first going through the appropriate rituals.¹ Both the line and the imprint of his hand can be seen on Judaculla Rock today.

The name Judaculla is an anglicized (English) pronunciation of the Cherokee name Tsul ‘Kalu and means “he has them slanting” which is referring to his eyes. He was known to the Cherokee people to be a slant-eyed giant, and they included his name in their various formulas, rites, and rituals to invoke his favor and success in hunting.¹

What is a Petroglyph?

A petroglyph is a form of “rock art”. Native Americans inscribed these images into the face of the rock by methods such as pecking, abrading or scratching.

Petroglyphs can have many meanings. Sometimes they were created or used during rituals or ceremonies, while others may tell a story, mark an important event or serve as a map.

The syllabary on the signs around Judaculla Rock were created by a Cherokee named Sequoyah in the 1820s.

Petroglyphs on Judaculla Rock

There are about 1,548 petroglyph designs on Judaculla Rock. This is more than any known boulder in the Eastern US. These petroglyphs symbolize important places, stories or events.

Circa 1930 – Milas Parker and the Parker family ‘whitewashed’ Judaculla Rock with
chalk so the petroglyphs were easier to see ²

Archaeologists and researchers believe that use of the site surrounding Judaculla Rock started about 3,000 years ago when soapstone was quarried from the rock to make bowls. You can still see the remnants of the soapstone that was quarried on the lower left-hand side of the rock.

Long after the quarrying stopped the petroglyph carvings are thought to have started around 1,500 years ago and continued up until 300 years ago.

There are several different theories on the meaning of these petroglyphs. Some think that Judaculla Rock served as a boundary marker for Cherokee hunting grounds.

Another theory is that the petrogylphs are a three-dimensional picture map of Judaculla’s world.¹ Yet other theories suggest that the markings tell of how one can enter into the spiritual world or that they are a map of the Battle of Taliwa where the Cherokees defeated the Creek tribe in 1755.³

Judaculla Area Landscape

In the 800 square mile area surrounding the Judaculla Rock site there are 12 place-names and features that reference Judaculla’s name. Early settlers called the Tanasee Bald area ‘Judaculla Old Fields’ and it was considered to be both his farm and one of his underworld entryways.¹

Below Tanasee Bald and the Devil’s Courthouse lie the Judaculla Ridge and Old Bald Ridge which were believed to be large fields that Judaculla once farmed. The granitic dome mountain named Looking Glass Rock is where Judaculla saw his own reflection. When the mountain is wet or icy, the granite cliff reflects light. It is said that only a giant would be able to stand so tall and see his reflection at those heights (3,969 feet).¹ Judaculla Mountain lies to the north of Judaculla Rock as well.

The surrounding town of Cullowhee is an anglicized (English) form of ‘Judaculla-whee’ which means Judaculla’s Place.¹ Cullowhee is six miles northeast of Judaculla Rock and is a historic Cherokee town and was also the site of a council house mound.

Judaculla Rock Site Today

The Judaculla Rock site is owned by Jackson County, NC today. In 1959 the Parker family that still owns the surrounding farm donated 1 acre to Jackson County for the site.

For nearly 100 years, the Parker family has served as a benefactor of the larger Judaculla Rock site to protect it from vandalism that has defaced or destroyed a number of other petroglyph sites in North Carolina. 107 acres of the surrounding Parker family farm was placed into a permanent conservation easement that will continue to protect the broader cultural site and preserve it from any development in the years to come.

Signs

Click the images below to view a photo of each one of the signs that are posted around the site.

More Information

Resources & Citations

North Carolina Highway Historical Marker Program
Scott Ashcraft & Lorie Hansen – N.C. Rock Art Project
DJR04.com – Reggie Duke

Places + Trails

Hike to Rabun Bald – Georgia’s 2nd Highest Peak

October 20, 2020

Written by Colby

0

Trail Info:
■ Distance: 3.2 miles
■ Trail Type: Out and Back
■ Elevation Change: 983′ Ascent (Uphill)
■ Hiking Time: 2 – 2.5 Hours
■ USGS Topo Quad Map: Rabun Bald
■ USFS Topo Quad Map: Rabun Bald
■ Mountain Range: Blue Ridge Mountains

Coordinates:
■ Trailhead: 34.97886, -83.3032
■ Turn to Summit: 34.97119, -83.30226
■ Summit: 34.96543, -83.29974

Download GPS Trail Track
KML | GPX

At 4,696 feet Rabun Bald is the second highest mountain peak in GA, to only Brasstown Bald at 4,784′ feet. Standing atop the old US Forest Service fire lookout tower at the summit, Rabun Bald offers 360-degree panoramic views as far as 100 miles of the surrounding area!

Rabun Bald is located in Sky Valley, GA which is in Rabun County. It is due east from the town of Dillard, GA off of Highway 441 / US 23 and north of the larger town of Clayton, GA.

Hiking Trail

The route starting at Beegum Gap offers the shortest route to the summit of Rabun Bald at a round trip distance of 3.2 miles. The ascent up to the summit is a steady uphill climb. The trailhead is at approximately 3,660 feet and the base of the fire lookout tower is at 4,673 feet. It took us about an hour to hike the uphill portion, and about 50 minutes back down to the trailhead from the summit.

Click each pin on the ‘Rabun Bald – Hiking Trail’ map below for photos

There are also 3 longer hiking trails to Rabun Bald. One route is 5.4 miles and starts off of Hale Ridge Rd and approaches the summit from the eastern face. The other is 7.9 miles also starts off Hale Ridge Rd, but intersects with the Beegum Gap trail and follows it to the summit. A third route is 8.1 miles and follows the Bartram Trail where it starts off Hale Ridge Road and also intersects with the Beegum Gap trail and follows it to the summit as well.

Turn to the Summit – Stay to the Left at this Intersection

Elevation Profile – Hike up to the Summit

Speed gets slower as your approach the summit – it’s uphill!

Elevation Profile – Hike Down to the Trailhead

Speed increases as you descend back to the trailhead – it’s downhill!

History of Rabun Bald

Photo by the Rabun County
Historical Society – rabunhistory.org

According to the Wikipedia page for Rabun Bald, the old lookout fire tower at the summit was the first of such towers that were constructed in this area. The photo to the left is of the original metal-framed “cabin” that was on the top of the tower’s stone base. It was constructed by Nick Nicholson, who was the first forest ranger in Georgia.

The cabin was operated by the US Forest Service until the early 1970s until it was taken out of service. The cabin was dismantled and the current wooden observation deck was constructed by the Youth Conversation Corps in its place.

Another fun fact from the Wikipedia page is that per Native American legend, Rabun Bald is inhabited by fire-breathing demon people. Some campers have reported hearing strange sounds throughout the night…

U.S Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Mark

At the summit of Rabun Bald, to the left of the stairs to the observation platform a reference mark for the U.S. Coast & Geodetic survey is affixed to a rock.

The reference mark contains the following inscription:
“U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Mark”
“NO. Rabun 2 1933”
“For Information Write To the Director, Washington D.C.”
“$250 Fine or Imprisonment For Disturbing This Mark”

us_coast_and_geodetic_survey_reference_mark_rabun_bald_ga.jpg — U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey Reference Marker
atop Rabun Bald – Set in 1933

Back before the times of GPS and modern surveying methods, these reference markers were placed at specific locations throughout the US. The markers were used for triangulation surveys, which were a way to establish angles and distances between various points. These measurements served as a basis for early map-making efforts across the United States.¹

The Geodetic Survey markers were typically set up in groups. In the triangulation method, a primary point was identified and deemed the “main station”. The reference mark for the main station was brass and contained a triangle emblem on the marker surface. Typically 3 other “triangulation stations” were set up for a given main station, and each of the triangulation station reference markers had an arrow (as seen in the photo above) that pointed back to the main station.¹

NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) maintains the National Geodetic Survey (NGS) and a national database for the associated reference markers. Each of the markers are assigned a unique identifier called a PIN or Permanent IDentifier. Each marker also has a “data sheet” that contains information about the marker and its history. The PIN for the reference mark on Rabun Bald is ED1439. To view a map of the reference markers visit the GPS on Bench Marks for the Transformation Tool and search for ‘ED1439’ or the National Geodetic Survey Data Explorer tool.

Driving Directions

To reach the trailhead at Beegum Gap, head north on GA 441 and pass through the town of Dillard. At the stoplight, take a right onto GA 246 / Dillard Rd and continue for approximately 7 miles.

Take a right onto Hale Ridge Rd where the Scaly Mountain Outdoor Center is located (you will see a hill with a tubing track on your right). Continue on Hale Ridge Rd, then take a right onto Bald Mountain Rd.

Take a right on Kelsey Mountain Road and continue slowly until you find a place to park on the side of Kelsey Mountain Rd. This is a popular hike, so parking spots may be limited on Kelsey Mountain Rd. There is no parking lot for the trailhead.

Rabun Bald Trailhead Parking on Kelsey Mountain Rd

How to Print USFS & USGS Topo Quad Maps

If you are interested in learning how to print full-size paper copies of USGS or USFS topo maps such as the one for Rabun Bald, take a look at our post Printing Full-Size USGS or USFS Topo Quad Maps at Staples (for only $5.94)!

Reference Articles

¹ Wikipedia – Survey Marker

Places + Trails

Toccoa River Swinging Bridge

December 31, 2018

I came across the bridge by chance on the way home from a trip to Forest Service Road 39 / Duncan Ridge Rd recently. Located in Suches, GA (Fannin County) off of Hwy 60 you can take Forest Service Road 816 (Tooni Gap) 3.39 miles to a parking area. The hike down to the bridge from the parking area is about 1/4 mile.

The bridge was built in 1977 by the US Forest Service with assistance from the Georgia Appalachian Trail Club to provide a safer way to cross the Toccoa River (as opposed to attempting to ford the river). It connects the Duncan Ridge Trail over the Toccoa to where it meets up with the Benton MacKaye Trail. Spanning 270 feet, the bridge is the longest swinging bridge east of the Mississippi. Crossing the bridge is an exciting experience as the it bounces with each footstep and sways right and left!

There are primitive campsites below the bridge at the Toccoa River as well. It is definitely worth visiting the next time you are in the Suches area!

From the intersection of Hwy 515 and Hwy 5 (McDonalds) in Blue Ridge, take Hwy 515 east for 4 miles to the traffic light at Hwy 60. Turn right and go to the stop sign, then turn left onto Hwy 60. Go 1.5 miles into Morganton, then turn right on Hwy 60 South towards Dahlonega for 11.3 miles until you pass Skeenah Mill. Go for 0.7 miles and look out for the sign in the photo to the right. It is visible from Hwy 60. This is Forest Service Road 816. Take it 3.39 miles down to the parking area then hike for approximately another 1/4 of a mile to the bridge.

FSR 816 is rated ‘2 – High Clearance Vehicles’ by the US Forest Service. The road is gravel, but it can be rough depending on the time of year and conditions. A 4×4 vehicle or Jeep is recommended, or at least a vehicle with high ground clearance. Thanks to this article BlueRidgeMountains.com for these directions.

Forest Service Road 816
(Tooni Gap / Toccoa River Swinging Bridge)
■ N 34.76609°
■ W 84.16426°
■ 3.39 miles from road (Hwy 60) to parking area
■ USFS Rated 2 – High Clearance Vehicles

Forest Service Road 816 – Parking Area
■ N 34.73922°
■ W 84.17027°

Toccoa River Swinging Bridge
■ N 34.73697°
■ W 84.16762°

This is the sign affixed to the support overhead as shown in the photo above

toccoa-river-swinging-bridge-from-duncan-ridge-trail-side.jpg — Bridge from the Duncan Ridge Trail side

You can also find additional info on the bridge via the two links below as well. Both articles were used as sources for this post.

■ Atlas Obscura
■ NorthFulton.com

History / Places + Trails

William Preston Brown Homesite

December 31, 2018

Location / Coordinates
N 34.52795°W 83.43354°
Forest Service Road 92B in Lake Russell WMA
(Browns Bottom Rd)

william-preston-brown-homesite-lake-russell-wma-ga-2.jpg — WP Brown’s 1913 US Government Retail Liquor License

The homesite of William Preston (WP) Brown is located within the Lake Russell Wildlife Management Area (WMA) in Cornelia/Toccoa (Stephens and Habersham counties) of off Forest Service Road 92B (Browns Bottom Rd). Today the historic homesite is mostly leaves, dirt and kudzu, but it leaves behind an interesting history.

WP was a respected and active member of the Mountain Grove community that existed within the Lake Russell WMA. He was known for his hard work farming the land of Browns Bottom and for operating a syrup mill and a legal (pre-prohibition) whiskey still down by the stream at his syrup mill site. He died at age 96 (1865 – 1962) and was married to Mary Farmer Brown (1868 – 1946).

Many of the Farmer family are buried in the Mountain Grove Cemetery which is also located at the intersection of Forest Service Roads 92 and 92B within the Lake Russell WMA. WP and Mary raised 9 children at this homesite.

WP was a respected and active member of the Mountain Grove community that existed within the Lake Russell WMA. He was known for his hard work farming the land of Browns Bottom and for operating a syrup mill and a legal (pre-prohibition) whiskey still down by the stream at his syrup mill site. He died at age 96 (1865 – 1962) and was married to Mary Farmer Brown (1868 – 1946). Many of the Farmer family are buried in the Mountain Grove Cemetery which is also located at the intersection of Forest Service Roads 92 and 92B within the Lake Russell WMA. WP and Mary raised 9 children at this homesite.

Quick history lesson on the Four Mile Purchase Treaty (I had to look it up) is below. Thanks to this article for the history.

Col. William Wofford and Jacob Hollingsworth moved from North Carolina to Franklin County, GA in 1972. They established a settlement which was known at Wofford’s Settlement. The property lines of this settlement were surveyed and it was determined that Wofford’s Settlement was considered to be within the territory of the Cherokee Indian nation.

Col. Wofford petitioned then Georgia Governor James Jackson to have the property lines re-drawn or provide some type of protection for Wofford and Hollingsworth and their possessions from Cherokee Indian raids. This ultimately resulted in an agreement where the United States agreed to pay the Cherokee Indian Nation $5,000 and $1,000 per year for the property rights to a tract of land that was 4 miles wide and 23 miles long. It extended from the Habersham – Banks County line on Baldwin Mountain to Line Baptist Church on old Hwy. 441, then from Currahee Mountain to the South Oconee River. This was known as the “Four Mile Purchase” of 1804.

WP Brown was the great-grandson of Robert Brown. Robert was mentioned in a letter that ultimately influenced then president Thomas Jefferson’s support of the Four Mile Purchase. It is thought that Robert and his wife Jane lived either at the WP Brown homesite or across the road (Forest Service Road 92B). It is also thought that Jane was possibly an Indian as Native Americans only had one name.

Both WP and his wife Many had great grandfathers that were veterans of the Revolutionary War. Robert Brown enlisted in 1776 and fought in the battle of Monmouth and the battle of Stony Point under George Washington. Mary’s grandfather Jacob Kytle also fought in the Monmouth and Stoney Point battles plus the battles of Guilford and Eutaw Springs. WP’s father Benjamin Pollard Brown was a Civil War veteran as well.

The US Forest Service has installed a place marker (you can see it in the photo at the top of the post to the left of my Jeep) that includes information about the homesite and WP’s family history (which is the source for this post). The photos below are of each page that is included in the place marker.

History / Places + Trails

Mountain Grove Cemetery Church & School

December 31, 2018

Mountain Grove Cemetery – December 29, 2018

Location / Coordinates
N 34.50077°
W 83.44158°

Mountain Grove Cemetery is located within the Lake Russell Wildlife Management Area (WMA) in Cornelia/Toccoa (Stephens and Habersham counties). The cemetery is located within the WMA at the intersection of Forest Service Roads 92 and 92B.

Today only the cemetery remains, but this cemetery was part of the Mountain Grove community that existed within the WMA bounds in the early 1900s. At the site of the cemetery a church also existed which served as the local school after the original school building (“Ballew School”) burned down.

mountain-grove-cemetery-school-steps-lake-russell-wma-ga.jpg — These concrete and brick steps are the only part of the Mountain Grove church that still remain. These concrete and brick steps are the only part of the Mountain Grove church that still remain.

mountain-grove-cemetery-head-stones-lake-russell-wma-ga.jpg — If you look closely at the headstone to the right you can see ‘WC Farmer’ and ‘AUG 2 1845’ making him the oldest person that is buried in the cemetery. Also, if you look directly in the middle of the two headstones you will see one of the small granite headstones that do not any have markings.

According to the information at the cemetery site (see photos below) the Mountain Grove community had around 30 home sites. It also had 2 blacksmith shops, a packing house, multiple mills, a sawmill, the Currahee voting house and a syrup mill. There are also multiple cemeteries still located within the WMA as well.

The cemetery is privately owned. In fact it is the only piece of land within the Lake Russell WMA that is privately owned. No one has been buried in the cemetery since William Randol Brown was buried in 1958. As you look around the cemetery you will see headstones with dates all the way back to 1845 (William Crawford Farmer). There are also a number of graves with small granite headstones that do not have any markings (name, date of death, etc.) There are two relatives of those in the cemetery that will be buried here upon their death. According to the information at the site they also will be buried with plain headstones with no markings. It is said to be in honor of their ancestors who are buried in and around the Lake Russell WMA (see photos below for more details).

I thought this was a pretty neat piece of history to stumble upon while out riding around the Lake Russell forest service roads In fact, my wife and I are fairly certain that some of the ‘Farmer’ family buried in the cemetery are related to my wife’s grandmother whose maiden name is Farmer and has lived in Toccoa her entire life!

The US Forest Service has installed a place marker (you can see it in the panoramic photo at the top of the post) that includes information about the cemetery and the Mountain Grove community (which is the source for this post). The photos below are of each page that is included in the place marker. Read the text on pages 2 and 5 in particular for some interesting events that occurred in the cemetery at some point…