My house is only about 6 years old, but the shutters that were originally on the house were in bad shape. The boards were sagging and no longer even, and the paint was worn from weather exposure and needed to be stripped and re-painted. I even tried to reinforce each set of shutters with brackets to correct the sagging, but it didn’t work very well. I even tried to use a sandblaster to strip the paint off so I could salvage them!
Old Shutters On The Left, New Shutters On the Right!
I decided it wasn’t worth the effort to try and salvage the original shutters, so I started shopping around to see what it would cost to buy them new. After a bit of searching around, I found that I was looking at $200+ per pair (hint – the shutters sets that are less than $200 a pair are usually smaller in height, or around 36″ tall) to buy a set that looked like they were of decent quality. I have 5 pairs of shutters on the front of my house, so the decision was made. It would be cheaper and easier to just build new shutters from scratch.
The video above walks you through the entire process from start to finish and explains how to build your own DIY wood shutters of the ‘board-and-batten or farmhouse style.
The material cost for 1 pair of shutters is $149.57 (small or large size) plus the cost of paint as of the time of this post. That also factors in the high cost of cedar lumber at $29.76 per 12-foot board in my area of the Southeast US.
To go along with the video, I put together a downloadable 5-page PDF plan set that includes everything you need to build a set of board-and-batten or farmhouse style DIY window shutters. The plan set includes all measurements and dimensions for 2 shutter sizes to match large and small windows. Each shutter size is shown in front and side views, along with a full parts cut list. The video above shows you exactly what to do at every step to build your new set of shutters!
Purchasing the plan set is risk-free. If you have any problems with your order and I will refund the entire purchase price. Just send me an e-mail and let me know why.
Scroll down to see the full materials and tool list for this project.
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
This is the second post in a series about Jeep trails in Georgia and off road trails in Georgia! This route starts in Summerville and travels across USFS Forest Service Roads and paved roads to Chickamauga in Northwest GA. There are several interesting points of interest and things to see along the route as well (see below).
Watch the video below for a preview of the route!
Special thanks to Shannon Reed for the video, photo and contributions to this route and post.
Corpsewood Manor In 1977, Dr. Charles Schudder and his partner moved from Chicago to this location to build their dream home for retirement. They built the brick mansion by hand over the next few years, but the couple was murdered in December of 1982 as a part of an attempted armed robbery. Today only a few remains of the structure exist.
Much history exists around this estate and the murders. To learn more visit Atlas Obscura or do a Google Search for “Corpsewood Manor“.
The home site is not really visible from the road. Take Forest Service Road 259 – Hammond Gap and then on to Forest Service Road 259A – Hammond Gap Branch A to the point where the GPS route starts. Proceed down the hill to your left and follow the small path that runs to the home site.
Blue Hole Blue Hole is a natural spring on the Crockford-Pigeon Mountain WMA in LaFayette, GA. The water in the hole is so clear you can see to the bottom of the hole. It also has a vivid blue color which gives the hole its name.
Pettyjohn Cave The Crockford-Pigeon Mountain WMA is home to 2 extensive cave systems. Pettyjohn’s Cave is the third largest cave in GA and is located on the eastern face of Pigeon Mountain. It has 6.5 miles of trails underground and descends to a depth of 235 feet. The cave features multiple “rooms” such as the Echo Room which is the largest room in the cave.
Ellison’s Cave & Fantastic Pit Ellison’s Cave is the home to Fantastic Pit, which at 586 feet deep is the largest vertical cave drop in the continental US. It is also the 12th deepest cave in the US and 12 miles in length underground. Ellison’s has 4 other pits as well – Incredible Pit at 440 feet deep, Smokey 1 (500 feet), Smokey II (262 feet) and Warm Up Pit (125 feet).
Ellison’s Cave is for very experienced or professional cavers only. There are signs at the information kiosk at Blue Hole that clearly state “THIS CAVE WILL TRY TO KILL YOU”. In fact, 3 people have died within the cave to date. Heed the warning and do you put yourself or others in danger by entering it if you are not an experienced/professional caverwith the proper gear, equipment, experience.
US Forest Service Road Status Please check the status of any Forest Service Roads that you plan to travel on prior to starting your trip. Visit the USFS Interactive Visitor Map and choose the search icon in the box at the top of the page and enter the name of the Forest Service Road. Click on the road name in the results and then click the map marker icon to view the details for the road.
It is also good practice to check the “Alerts & Notices” section of the USFS website for the forest that the road is in. When roads are closed they are typically updated on these pages. Click the links below to visit the page for the Nantahala or Cherokee National Forests.
Responsible use of USFS roads and any Jeep trails in Georgia in general will benefit all of us so the roads can be properly maintained and open for our enjoyment.
Springtime is coming! As the weather warms up now is a great time to build your own DIY wooden patio cooler stand out of cedar and custom made for a Yeti Tundra 45 cooler! This how-to post includes detailed step-by-step instructions and over 50 photos to show you exactly what to do. You can purchase the plan set to go with the post below as well. Each piece in the plan set corresponds to the steps this post.
The downloadable plan set includes a 7-page PDF with a complete parts cut list and exploded, front, side, top, and top interior views. It follows this post exactly and includes all dimensions and measurements you need to build the cooler stand for only $9.99! Purchasing the plan set is risk-free. If you have any problems with your order and I will refund the entire purchase price. Just send me an e-mail and let me know why.
Total Material Cost: $320 (as of the time of build)
The total material cost assumes you have all of the required tools and a Yeti Tundra 45 cooler (or another cooler that you plan to use).
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
This is a high-end stain that was recommended by my local custom home store. It seals the wood very well to protect it against the outdoor elements. You can use another stain that is a bit more budget-friendly such as Minwax Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane. I do recommend spending the money on a high-quality stain/urethane to help the stand last as long as possible outdoors
It takes about a 1/2 gallon to apply 2 coats to the entire stand
I already had the 45 model cooler, so I built the stand specifically to fit it. If you don’t have this model Yeti cooler (or don’t want to spend $299 on it), just adjust the width dimensions on the plans to fit the outside-to-outside width of the cooler you already have or want to use
If you don’t know the dimensions of your cooler, try searching the manufacturer’s website and look for a specifications page, such as this one published by Yeti
The table saw is used to trim the top trim pieces to a width of 4″. You can make this cut with a circular saw as well. If you use a circular saw consider also using a straight edge system to make sure the cuts are straight and accurate. I have the Rockler system and once you learn how to get it set up correctly it makes perfect cuts every time
Optional, but makes driving the Kreg pocket hole screws much easier. An impact driver provides much more torque than a regular electric drill, which makes it easier to drive the screw into the wood to the full depth
If you don’t already have a Kreg pocket hole jig, strongly consider purchasing the K4 pocket-hole system. It includes everything you need to get up and running to create pocket holes and it’s very simple to use
The Bosch Colt 1-HP Variable Speed Palm Router is ideal for this project. It’s compact and easy to operate with one hand, which makes routing the edges of the trim pieces quick and easy
45 Degree Chamfer Router Bit
If you use the smaller palm router make sure the router bit is the proper size to fit in the router. The first bit I purchased was too large to fit, so I ended up using the Irwin 1 19/64″ carbide-tipped chamfer bit from Lowes. The larger 1 3/4″ Diablo 45-degree bit from Home Depot should work fine in a full-size router
1/4″ Rabbet Router Bit (optional)
This bit is used to cut the groove for the wine racks, which is optional. Ryobi sells a 15-bit router set that includes both 1/4″ and 1/2″ rabbeting bits. The 1/4″ bit is perfect for the wine rack. You can also find a single bit that is capable of cutting multiple rabbet depths such as the Freud model available on Amazon
These bits allow the outdoor screws (used to attach the top trim supports) to sit flush with the exterior surface of the wood
Nominal vs. Actual Lumber Dimensions
It’s important to understand the difference between “nominal” lumber dimensions and “actual” lumber dimensions. Basically, the idea is that a 2″ x 4″ board doesn’t actually measure 2″ x 4″. The actual width and thickness are less than 2″ and 4″.
Nominal Dimension – The “trade name” or “identification” size, such as 2″ x 4″. Nominal dimension is simply used as just a reference to a common board size
Actual Dimension – The actual size of the lumber. For example, a 2″ x 4″ actually measures 1.5″ x 3.5″
The reason that knowing the difference between nominal and actual lumber dimensions is important is because it will affect the outcome of your project. If you just assume that the nominal dimension is the actual dimension, you will end up with incorrect measurements and pieces that do not fit together properly.
If your project isn’t coming together correctly and the measurements are off, this is one of the first things to consider. Take a look at the Kreg Tool article on Nominal vs. Actual Sizing for more details and a nice illustration.
The actual dimensions of the cedar wood used in this project are a bit different than the standard nominal dimensions. Here are the actual dimensions for the 4 board sizes used for the patio cooler:
2″ x 4″ (nominal) / 1.75″ x 3.75″ (actual)
1″ x 6″ (nominal) / 5/8″ x 5.5″ (actual)
1″ x 4″ (nominal) / 3/4″ x 3.5″ (actual)
1″ x 2″ (nominal) / 3/4″ x 1.5″ (actual)
Cut List
The plan set PDF includes a complete cut list of all of the pieces and is on page 2.
This list will give you a better idea of how many different pieces there are in the overall project.
I will say this about cutting all the pieces prior to assembling them – I virtually never pre-cut all the pieces. Why? I like to cut the pieces for each step individually in case any adjustments need to be made to the dimensions of a given piece.
Let’s be honest, woodworking isn’t always an exact science despite our best intentions. Cutting the pieces as you progress through the project helps minimize material waste and allows for on-the-fly adjustments. It may take a little more time, but it often leads to less frustration.
Step 1 – Stand Legs
(PART #1 IN PLAN SET)
The legs of the cooler stand are made out of the 2″ x 4″ cedar board. Each leg requires 2 boards.
It is very important that all the legs are the same length. This is also true for the rest of the components as well. If the lengths of the difference pieces are off by as little as 3/16″ to 1/4″ it can throw the overall dimensions off and result in issues such as pieces not fitting together properly.
TIP: CUT 1 LEG AND USE IT AS A GUIDE
Measure the length of the leg and mark it with your pencil. I like to use a green pen as it’s easier to see in the shop and makes a line that is thick enough to see, but not so thick that it makes it more difficult to know where to place the saw blade when making the cut.
Place the board on the miter saw, and bring the saw blade down close to the board so you can see where the saw blade will contact the board. Adjust the position of the board so that the saw blade will make the cut on the outside of your length mark. Take into account the width of the saw blade. If you place the blade to the inside of your length mark your cut will come up about 1/8″ short. If your miter saw has a laser use it to help align the blade, but don’t always trust that the laser is dead accurate. It’s better to cut the board a little long and trim it slightly until it’s just the right length than cut it short.
NOTE: If you have a sliding miter saw place the length mark on the end of the board closest to you when standing at the saw. This makes the cut easier to align vs. placing the mark on the end of the board that is closest to the saw fence. If your miter saw isn’t a sliding model, place the mark on the edge closest to the saw fence.
Double-check to make sure that your cut is exactly equal to the length of the leg. Use the first leg as a guide to cut the remaining 7 pieces. Place the remaining length of the board on the miter saw deck, then take the leg you just cut and set it on top of the board. Align the end of the (already cut) cut leg with the end of the board on the saw and make sure they are flush.
Slide both boards forward on the saw until they are close to the saw blade. Bring the saw blade down, and set the position of the board to where the inside edge of the saw blade barely clears the cut leg. This will ensure that the legs are exactly the same length. Repeat this process using the first leg cut until you have cut 8 total pieces.
This video demonstrates the cutting process:
Once all 8 legs are cut, lay them out on a level, flat surface and check to make sure that all legs are the same length. If any of the legs are too long use the miter saw to trim them down a “blade width” at a time. This means just trim the board by the width of the miter saw blade (about 1/16 – 1/8″) incrementally until the leg is the correct length.
Step 2 – Drill Pocket Holes On Stand Legs
Pocket holes are a simple way to add both a professional touch and functional strength to your projects. The pocket holes allow you to hide the screws that join the pieces of the cooler stand together while creating a very tight joint between the two boards. I use Kreg’s K4 pocket-hole jig system. If you haven’t used pocket holes in your projects before don’t worry, it’s very easy to learn how the jig system works and to get up and running fast.
TIP: ORIENTATION MATTERS. LAY THE LEGS OUT FIRST AND MARK THE HOLES BEFORE DRILLING
Take two of the legs and lay them out as if you were assembling them. Take a look at both sides of each board – which side looks the best? That side will be the outside edge of the leg. The pocket holes will be on the opposite side, which is the inside edge. Keep this in mind as you drill the pocket holes.
Once you determine which board faces should be facing outside, make a mark on the leg to indicate the outside edges as shown below.
The leg shown in this photo is the front left-hand side. Switch the orientation for the legs on the back of the stand. See the downloadable plan set for additional detail.
Once all of the outside edges are marked on each leg, the next step is to mark the inside edges to indicate where the pocket holes should be drilled. When you stand the legs upright you will have a “front” and “back” edge on the leg where the pocket holes will be drilled.
Place the legs (that you will drill the pocket holes in) upright so that the narrow end is facing upward. This is the “back” edge of the leg. Place a mark at 3″, 16″, 29″ & 37″ to space out the pocket holes evenly. These marks will be used to align the leg within the pocket hole jig.
NOTE: The mark will be at the opposite end of the board in relation to where the pocket holes are drilled. The holes will be closer to the “back” edge of the leg, and the screws will pass through the “front” edge into the “inside” edge of the adjoining leg.
Place each leg into the pocket-hole jig and slide the mark for the hole to where it is aligned with the “A” mark on the jig. Support the end of the leg with a scrap piece of wood so that the leg sits level in the jig. The clamp on the pocket-hole jig will contact the “outside” edge of the leg.
If none of the above makes sense these photos should help you understand how the pocket holes work:
Once all 4 pocket holes are drilled the leg will look like this:
Step 3 – Assemble The Legs
You will need 2.5″ Kreg pocket hole screws, wood glue, and clamps to join the leg pieces together. Before you drive any screws, lay the legs out standing upright to make sure the orientation is correct. If you have an impact driver tool it will make driving the screws into the wood easier as compared with driving them with an electric drill. Either will work, but you may have to take a make more than one passes at driving the screw if you’re using an electric drill.
NOTE: The legs that have the pocket holes will always be on the “short” (left and right) sides of the cooler frame, not the long sides (front and back).
Lay the piece of the leg without pocket holes on a flat surface and clamp it down. This will hold the leg steady while driving the pocket hole screws. Run a line of wood glue along the inside edge of the leg with the pocket holes and slide it flush against the leg that is clamped down.
Make sure that both ends of the leg with the pocket holes are even with the ends of the clamped leg. Once they are, drive the pocket hole screws and add two more clamps to the ends of the leg as shown below. This will help the wood glue bond the two legs together. Let the wood glue dry overnight, or at least as long as the glue directions suggest. Assemble all 4 legs.
Step 4 – Cut The Frame Top Supports
(PART #2 IN PLAN SET)
The top frame supports join the two legs together. For now, just cut the 2 top frame supports. The bottom 2 frame supports will be cut in step 9.
Measure and mark the length of the support on a 2″ x 4″ board. Use the first support that you cut as a guide for the second support, just as you did when cutting the legs. Once cut lay the two pieces on top of each other, make sure the ends are flush, and check to make sure that the pieces are the exact same length. Trim any excess length as needed.
Step 5 – Drill Pocket Holes On Frame Top Supports
The pocket holes for the frame top supports are drilled on the “short” end of the board instead of the “long” end.
Determine which side of the board should face out and place two marks on the inside edge of the top support pieces to indicate where the pocket holes should be drilled. Place the top support piece upright in the Kreg jig and drill two pocket holes in the “A” and “C” positions. Drill 2 pocket holes on each end of both top support pieces.
Step 6 – Attach The Top Supports To The Frame Legs
(PARTS #1 & #2 IN THE PLAN SET)
Clear out an area on the ground that is at least 6 feet wide, preferably as level as possible. Lay the legs for the front of the cooler frame on the ground with the outside edges of the legs facing the ground.
Place one of the top support pieces on top of the legs, with the pocket holes on the top support piece facing up towards the ceiling.
Test fit the pieces to make sure that the top edge of the frame top support is flush with the inside edge of the leg and that it is fully seated against the inside edge. Once you have checked the fit, add a line of wood glue to the outside edge of the top support piece where it joins with the leg.
Use a rafter/speed square or a 90-degree carpenter’s square to make sure that the angle between the frame top support and the leg is 90 degrees. It is important to make sure that the angle is true to 90 degrees. If the angle is off it will make it more difficult to fit the bottom frame supports and the supports for the bottom shelf properly. It can also cause the stand to not sit level on the ground.
Basically, the width between the stand legs and the bottom will be more narrow or wide than the width at the top.
After you have verified that the angle is correct, drive the pocket hole screws. Either place your body weight on the top support as close to the leg as possible to keep it from moving while you drive the pocket hole screws, or have your partner hold the two pieces in place.
Once the pocket hole screws are in place, stand the leg assemblies upright and place a clamp on each end and let the wood glue dry overnight.
Step 7 – Cut The Top Frame Side Supports
(PART #3 IN PLAN SET)
The frame side supports join the front and rear leg assemblies together to form the full “rectangular” frame. They also determine the interior width of the stand, which is important because the interior width needs to be just wide enough to hold the cooler but still provide enough surface for the “lip” of the Yeti cooler to rest upon. The Yeti Tundra 45 is designed so that the lower 3/4 of the cooler is narrower than the top 1/4. This difference in width provides a recessed lip that will sit on the top trim of the cooler stand.
Set your cooler in the stand as shown to the right and adjust the width of the leg assemblies so that the cooler sits firmly in between the front and back leg assemblies. Measure the distance between the inside edge of the front leg assembly and the inside edge of the rear leg assembly. The distance should be 14 1/2″ to 14 3/8″ for the Tundra 45 model (the plans specify 14 1/2″ for the side support piece, but double-check this measurement before you cut the side supports). If you are using a different cooler model just adjust the width of the leg assemblies accordingly to match the width of your cooler.
Once you have verified the interior width dimension mark this on a 2″ x 4″ board and cut the first side support. Test fit the support piece in between the front and back leg assemblies, and trim the side support piece as necessary.
It helps to have someone hold the stand leg assemblies upright when test fitting the side support pieces so that the entire thing doesn’t fall over. Cut 3 more side support pieces to the exact same width using the same method as the stand legs. It is very important that the side supports are the exact same length. If they are not the same, the bottom portion of the stand will likely be narrower in width by 1/4″ to 1/2″ inches which
means that the pieces for the top side of the bottom shelf will need to be different lengths (see part #11 in the plan set). Measure twice, cut once. Determine which face of the top support should face outwards and place two marks on the interior face of the side support pieces for the pocket holes.
You will want to offset the pocket holes slightly on the side supports to make sure that the pocket hole screws don’t hit the screws that attach the top supports to the legs. When you place the side support pieces in the Kreg jig just offset the board to the right and left sides, then drill the pocket holes at positions “A” and “C”.
Place a line of wood glue on the outside edges of the side supports and make sure they sit flush with the inside edges of the front and back frame leg assemblies. Use your speed square or 90-degree carpenter’s square to make sure that the angle between the side support and the front or back leg assemblies is 90 degrees (again, just as important as in step 6). Drive the pocket hole screws, apply clamps to each end and let the wood glue dry overnight.
Step 8 – Cut & Install Top Trim Pieces
(PARTS #12 & #13 IN PLAN SET)
This step may seem out of order – why cut the top trim pieces before you cut the bottom frame supports? The reason is that the trim that sits on the top side of the cooler stand adds 3/4″ an inch of height. The top trim pieces need to be in place so you can set the cooler in the stand and get the correct measurements for the bottom frame supports and the cooler supports (see part #15 in the plan set). If you take the measurements without the top trim in place your bottom frame supports and the cooler supports will be off by about 3/4″.
The 1″ x 6″ board is used for the top trim pieces, but cut down to a narrower width of 4″. Since the actual width of the 1″ x 6″ board is 5.5″, you will need to trim 1.5″ off of the board. You can use a table saw or a circular saw to make these cuts.
If you are using a circular saw, consider using a straight edge system to make sure your cuts are straight. You can also make a straight edge out of any scrap board you have that you are sure is square and straight. If you are using a circular saw and a straight edge, first mark the board at 4″ and then hold your circular saw up to the mark so that the outside edge of the circular saw blade is positioned at the outside edge of the mark. Take your pen or pencil and mark the edge of the circular saw deck, then align your straight edge against that mark and clamp it in place. This will position the circular saw blade in exactly the right spot for the cut.
The overall width of the stand from the outside of the left leg to the outside of the right leg is 64″. To give the front and back top trim pieces about a 1/2″ of overhang, cut the length of the front top trim piece to 65″ (see part 12 in the plan set).
Use the front pieces as a guide to cut the back piece to the same length. Both the front and back trim pieces need to be exactly the same length for the side trim pieces to line up correctly. If they are different lengths the top trim “rectangle” will be out of square.
Once you cut the front and back top trim pieces, place a mark on the left and right-hand sides at 1/2″ from the edge of the board. This mark will be used to align the edge of the trim piece with the outside of the cooler stand legs (to set the 1/2″ overhang).
Position the front and rear trim pieces on the stand by aligning the marks on the ends of the boards with the edge of the legs. Make sure that the interior edge of the trim piece is as flush with the edge of the top supports as possible.
If you have a larger framing square, use it to check and make sure that the front and back trim pieces are square. Place the short end of the square on the front top trim piece and point the long end towards the edge of the back top trim piece. If the pieces are square the edge of the back top trim piece will align with the long edge of the framing square. If the trim pieces are not square, then adjust the position of one piece at a time left or right until both edges are flush with the framing square.
If you don’t have a large enough framing square you can basically accomplish the same thing by just test fitting the left and right top trim pieces until all 4 pieces of the top trim line up. Once in position, clamp the trim pieces down for now – don’t glue and nail them yet.
Next, measure the length of the left and right top trim pieces (see part 13 in the plan set). To get the tightest fit between the front and back trim pieces, cut the side trim pieces about 1/8 – 3/16″ long and trim the pieces slightly until they fit just right.
The edges of the side trim pieces will sit flush with the edge of the front and back top trim pieces if they are square. If they don’t, either adjust the left or right position of the front or back trim pieces as described above or double-check the length of the front and back pieces to make sure they are the same. Once the side trim pieces are square, clamp them down as well.
Apply a line of wood glue and attach the top trim to the stand using 1 1/4″ nail brads or finishing nails. Do this one piece at a time, leaving the other pieces clamped down securely in place. Reapply the clamps to all 4 pieces once glued and nailed and let them dry overnight.
Step 9 – Cut Bottom Frame Supports
(PART #2 IN PLAN SET)
The bottom frame supports sit directly below the top frame supports. Double-check the inside to inside measurement where the bottom frame supports will be installed (about 29 5/8″ – 29 3/4″ off the ground) to make sure that the interior width is exactly the same as top frame supports.
Measure and mark the length of the bottom frame supports and cut 2 pieces to the exact same length. It is important to get the height of the bottom frame supports correct, as the cooler support pieces (see part #15 in the plan set) are attached to the front and back bottom frame supports.
First, make sure the ground is level first then measure up (from the ground)on the inside edge of the front leg and make a mark the measurement.
One easy way to make sure the height is the same is to cut a piece of scrap wood to 29 5/8″ and use it as a template to mark the height mark on the leg. This is the height that the top edge of the bottom frame support will sit at.
Clamp one side of the bottom frame support to the leg, then move the other end up to the 29 5/8″ mark. Clamp this end in place as well. Use an I-Beam level to make sure that the bottom support is sitting level, and adjust one side as necessary until the level bubble is in between the lines on the middle of the gauge. Repeat this process for the back bottom support.
Once both of the front and back bottom supports are in place, use the I-Beam level to make sure that both supports are sitting at the same height and are level. Place one end of the level on the front support and the other end on the back support so it sits across the width of the support pieces. The level bubble should sit in the middle of the guage. Make sure you check for level on both the left and right-hand sides, and the
middle as well. If adjustments are needed, move just one of the bottom support pieces until both sit level.
Place your cooler into the stand (this is why it was necessary to install the top trim piece in step 8), and use a piece of scrap wood to place in between the front and back bottom supports. Make sure that the bottom of the cooler rests on your “test”.(scrap wood) cooler support when the piece is flush with the top of the bottom support boards.
The cooler should be fully seated within the stand upon the top trim pieces, and the bottom supports should be just high enough so that the cooler support pieces will provide a firm base for the cooler to rest on once it is full of ice and drinks. Make new position marks if the actual height of the bottom supports was less or more than the original height mark. For the Yeti Tundra 45 model, the height of the bottom support should be right at 29 5/8″ – 29 3/4″ from the ground.
Drill pocket holes in the short ends of the bottom support pieces as you did in step 5 for the side supports. Add a line of wood glue and re-position the front support into the frame and re-check for level.
Apply the clamps again to keep the support steady, and drive the pocket hole screws. Do the same for the rear bottom support, again checking for level both on the rear bottom support and across to the front bottom support. Drive the pocket hole screws and leave both pieces clamped to dry overnight.
Step 10 – Cut Bottom Side Supports
(PART #3 IN PLAN SET)
The side supports for the bottom of the frame are made exactly like the top side supports in step 7. Use a measuring tape to double-check the width of the top side support before cutting. If you have a laser distance measuring tool use it for this measurement, as the laser measure can be more accurate than a tape measure in narrow or inside-to-inside distances. Offset the pocket holes the same way you did in step 7 as well.
Test fit the side supports and use a smaller torpedo level before driving the pocket hole screws. The longer 6″ Kreg pocket hole driver bit is harder to fit into this space, so you may need to use one of the smaller 3″ Kreg pocket hole driver bits. Make sure you run a line of wood glue before driving the pocket hole screws, then clamp and let the wood glue dry.
Step 11 – Cut Cooler Supports
(Part #15 In Plan Set)
You have already test fit the cooler supports in step 9 to make sure they are positioned at the correct height. All you need to do now is double check the width measurement and attach the cooler supports to the front and back bottom frame pieces.
With the cooler still in the stand, measure the width between the inside of the front bottom support and the inside of the rear bottom support at the position just inside of the rubber cooler feet pads. The width should be equal to the width of the top and bottom frame side supports. Cut the two cooler supports to the same length, then test fit them within the frame. Place each cooler support just to the inside of the rubber cooler feet and make a mark on the
center of the cooler support and on the bottom support so you know where to align the two pieces. Take the cooler out of the frame and set it aside.
Drill the pocket holes on the cooler supports so that the holes on both supports face the inside towards each other. Once the pocket holes are drilled place the supports back into the frame and clamp them in place. Use the speed square to make sure that the cooler supports are square to the front and back bottom supports, then re-tighten the clamps to hold the cooler supports steady. Drive the pocket holes (again, the 3″ pocket hole driver bit may be easier than the 6″ bit in this tighter space).
Step 12 – Cut & Install Front, Back & Side Interior Trim
(PARTS #5 & #6 IN PLAN SET)
The front, back and side interior trim pieces are made out of the 1″ x 4″ board. They are finished using a 45-degree chamfer router bit, which really gives the cooler stand a nice dimensional, finished look.
If you have not used a router before don’t worry – it’s more intimidating than it looks. Once you learn how to set the router bit correctly actually routing the wood is fairly easy after a couple of practice runs.
If this is your first project using a router take some scrap board and practice routing the board edges before you route the actual trim pieces. I have a Bosch Colt palm router that is very easy to set up and use and fits perfectly within one hand. The palm router size makes it much easier to hold the board with one hand and operate the route with the other (as compared to a larger router that typically requires both hands to operate).
Measure the length of the trim pieces first by taking a measurement at the left, center and right positions on the front of the cooler stand. You measurement should be from the bottom of the top trim piece to the bottom edge of the bottom frame support.
It’s quite possible that the length measurements will vary a little bit (about 1/8″ or so), which means you will want to cut all of the trim pieces to the longest length so they align properly once installed. If there are small differences in length you can trim an individual piece to the correct measurement as you install them (since you cut all of the pieces to the longest length).
You will have a little leeway due to the fact that the exterior trim pieces (see parts 7 & 8 in the plan set) will sit on top of the interior trim and hide any small differences in the length of the interior trim pieces.
The length of the trim should be about 14 1/8″. Cut the first piece and test fit it against the front of the stand. You will need 17 trim pieces for the front, 17 for the back, and 3 for each side of the stand. Cut all of the trim pieces at the same time, again using the first piece as your guide.
Use the 45-degree chamfer router bit to create the beveled edge from one end of the trim piece to the other (lengthwise). Route both the left and right edges of the 36 trim pieces, and just one edge of 4 of the trim pieces. You will see why only one edge needs to be routed on 4 of the pieces in just a second.
Once you have routed all of the pieces, install each piece by attaching it to the top and bottom frame supports on the front and back of the stand. Apply wood glue to the top and bottom portions of the trim where it meets the top and bottom frame supports and nail them in place with 1 1/4″ nail brads or finish nails. Make sure that you fit each trim piece snugly against the adjoining piece as you install them. Make sure there are no (or minimal gaps) between the trim pieces. Install the remaining 16 trim pieces on the front and back, and 2 on the sides.
The 17th piece that you install on the front and back, and the 3rd piece on the sides will need to be trimmed down to a smaller width, as shown below.
To cut the final trim pieces, first measure the distance from the left edge of the 16th trim piece to the edge of the stand leg. This width should be about 1 1/4″ – 1 1/2″. Use your tape measure or a regular ruler to mark the width on both ends of the this trim piece.
Make the mark on the side of the trim piece that will face the inside – it’s easier to cut the piece with the mark on this side. Take your I-Beam level and align it with the width marks, then adjust the level until the bubble is in the center of the gauge. This indicates that the line is straight, so mark the line with your pencil or pen.
Clamp the trim piece to a sturdy surface so that a portion of the trim that you will cut hangs off the table. Make the cut with a jigsaw along the line you just marked. It’s fine to make this cut a little bit narrower than the actual width measurement. This will give you a little wiggle room when you install the piece and it also helps avoid having to make multiple cuts to make it fit the exact width. The exterior trim pieces will hide any small gaps between the last trim piece and the stand legs.
Fit the last trim piece in place, glue and nail. You may need to use a small straight edge or pry bar to snug the last trim piece in place as shown in the photo below to the right.
Step 13 – Cut And Install The Front, Back & Side Exterior Trim
(PARTS #7, #8, #9 & #10 IN PLAN SET)
The exterior trim pieces are made out of the 1″ x 2″ board. They just form a simple rectangular frame that is mounted to the outside edge of the interior trim pieces. Verify that the measurements in the plan set match the actual dimensions on the stand. Cut each piece a bit long and trim it to fit as needed to make sure the fit is nice and tight.
Install the top exterior trim piece first on the front of the stand. Make sure that it sits flush against the bottom of the top trim piece.
Install the bottom exterior trim piece next, making sure it is flush with the bottom of the interior trim pieces you just installed in step 12. Install the left and right exterior trim pieces last, cutting each piece incrementally to just the right height. Repeat on the back and sides.
Run a line of wood glue on the back side of each exterior trim piece and attach to the interior trim pieces with 1 1/4″ nail brads or finish nails.
Step 14 – Cut Trim & Supports For Top Serving Area
(PARTS #14 & #16 IN PLAN SET)
The “top serving area” (for lack of a better description) is a space for items such as napkins, cups, drink mixers, etc.
Home Depot sells plastic planter boxes (for plants) that are the perfect size to fit in the top of the cooler stand. The boxes make good ice buckets for wine bottles or any other drinks you would like to keep cold but not in the cooler. They are the exact length/dimension of the space on the stand (15″ x 8″), and have a small lip at the top of the box that rests perfectly on the top trim pieces. They are $5 each as well! Purchase two of them in the black/bronze color.
The trim pieces for the top serving area are cut and routed exactly the same way as the front and side trim pieces in step 12.
Start by placing the two planter boxes in the left-hand side of the stand and push them together so that the lip on the top of the boxes are touching. Put the cooler back in the stand on the right-hand side as well.
Measure the distance from slightly inside the right-hand planter box (the one closest to the cooler) to just before the edge of the cooler. This is the width for the serving are trim supports, and it should measure 16.5″.
Cut two of these supports to the exact same length using a piece of the remaining 1″ x 2″ exterior trim that you just installed on the front, back, and sides of the stand.
Test fit the supports in the top serving area and trim incrementally as needed. I used a countersink drill bit to drill 3 holes on the top trim support so that the screws that attach it to the stand frame sit recessed in the wood. You can’t really see these screws, but it still provides a nice touch. Once you have the top trim supports cut to the correct length, mount them in place so that they sit just under the front and back top trim pieces.
If you have a level that will fit in the space use it to make sure that the supports are level as you install them. Make sure that they are level across (front to back) also. Use #8 1 1/4″ exterior screws (preferably in black or gray) to attach the supports to the stand frame. If one side of the 1″ x 2″ board is rough, mount that side facing down towards the floor and position the smooth side of the board up. The trim pieces will rest against the smooth edge of the support.
Next, measure the inside-to-inside length from the back piece of the top trim support to the front piece. This is the length of the trim piece, and it should measure 14 3/8″. Cut a total of 5 trim pieces to the same length.
The 5th trim piece will be installed next to the cooler. You will need to trim the width of the 5th piece just as you did with the front, back and side interior trim pieces in step 12. Test fit the 4 trim pieces in the stand and make sure they are sit flush and flat on the supports.
The top of the top serving area trim should sit flush with the front and back top trim pieces. Trim any length as necessary on each board. Once all boards are trimmed to the correct length, route 45-degree edges on both sides 4 of the trim pieces, and on the left-hand side of the 5th piece.
Install the far left trim piece first (the one closest to the planter box). Add a line of wood glue to both ends where the trim piece will rest on the support. Use the speed square to make sure that the trim piece is square to the front and back top trim pieces, then drive 1 1/4″ nail brads or finish nails at an angle so that they pass through the trim piece and into the trim support piece. If the trim pieces are not square the remaining pieces won’t fit correctly. Repeat until you get to the 5th trim piece next to the cooler.
For the 5th trim piece, measure the distance from the edge of the cooler (in the center of cooler width) to the right edge of the 4th trim piece. It should be about 2 5/8″ – 2 11/16″. Mark this distance on the
5th trim piece, scribe a straight line with your I-Beam level and cut to width with a jigsaw. Again, cut it slightly less than the actual measurement so there is a little leeway between the right edge of the trim piece and the cooler. Test fit the 5th trim piece and trim as needed. Once the width is correct route the left edge of the piece and install it in the stand with wood glue and nail brads or finish nails.
Step 15 – Cut Bottom Shelf Supports
(PART #4 IN PLAN SET)
You’re almost done! Just a few more pieces to cut. The bottom shelf is handy for storing many different items, such as buckets, plates, or anything else you want to keep close by.
The bottom shelf supports are cut just like the top and bottom frame supports in steps 4 & 9. Measure the distance from the inside of the right hand leg to the inside of the left hand leg. It should match the length of the top and bottom frame supports. Cut two pieces out of the 2″ x 4″ board at the same length. Test fit the front bottom shelf support and trim to length, then repeat for the back bottom shelf support. Drill 2 pocket holes on each side, offset as you did in step 7.
To install the bottom supports, first check that the floor is level. If it isn’t the bottom supports won’t be level and in turn, the bottom shelf will not sit level.
Measure 5″ off the ground and make a mark on the stand legs on the left and right sides. Place the front bottom shelf support in the frame and adjust it to the point where the bottom of the support board is level with the marks you just made on the legs and clamp it in place.
Use the I-Beam level to check and make sure the shelf support sits level and adjust as needed. Do the same for the back bottom shelf support and clamp in place. Place the ends of the I-Beam level on the front and back bottom shelf supports and check for level across the 2 boards.
Once both pieces are level and correctly positioned, update your alignment marks if needed. Remove the clamps from the front bottom shelf support, apply a line of wood glue to each end and re-position them while making sure the edge of the support board is aligned with your marks. Drive the pocket hole screws and re-apply the clamps and let it dry overnight. Repeat the process for the back top support.
You can also add side supports to the bottom shelf if you would like, but they are not really necessary. If you do choose to add them, cut and install them just like the side frame supports in step 7.
Check for level across the two bottom shelf supports
Step 16 – Cut Bottom Shelf Trim
(PART #11 IN PLAN SET)
The trim for the bottom shelf also is cut exactly like the front, back, side and top serving area trim pieces. Check the measurement from the outside edge of the back bottom shelf support to the outside edge of the front bottom shelf support. Check this width on the left, center and right sides of the bottom shelf support to make sure it is the same. It may vary slightly (1/8″ or so) as you move across the bottom shelf. If it does, just cut all of the bottom shelf trim pieces to the same (longest) length.
Cut 18 pieces total to the required length. You will have to trim the 18th piece to fit just as you did with the interior trim pieces in step 12. Route a 45-degree edge on 17 of the pieces, and on the right-hand side of the 18th piece.
Install the trim pieces starting on the right-hand side. Add a line of wood glue on both ends of the trim piece where it will rest on the bottom shelf supports. Nail the pieces in place with 1 1/4″ nail brads or finish nails. As you work across the bottom shelf make sure the trim pieces fit together tightly and are square before nailing them down. The width of the 18th trim piece should be about 1 5/8″. Trim it to size, test fit, route the right edge and glue and nail in place.
Step 17 – Wine Glass Rack
(PART #17 IN PLAN SET)
The wine glass racks are another nice touch. They provide a convenient place to store glasses outside (and hopefully prevent them from being broken when not used). The rack is very simple to make. It consists of 4 pieces of the 1″ x 2″ board, with a 1/4″ rabbet (groove) cut on the side of each piece. The base of the wine glasses slide into the rabbet.
Measure the width from the outside edge of the front bottom frame support (right under the bottom of the front interior trim) to the outside edge of the back bottom frame support. Cut 4 pieces out of the 1″ x 2″ board used for the exterior trim. Test fit each piece and trim the length slightly to make sure the rack is flush with the exterior trim pieces above it.
Use a 1 1/4″ rabbet router bit to route the groove on the top inside edge of each piece. To determine the width between the two pieces get one of your favorite wine glasses and have a partner hold the rack piece up on the left side as if it were mounted to the bottom of the stand.
Place the wine glass in the rack, then position the second rack piece on the right so that the glass hangs by the base of the glass. Leave a little room for the glass to move around in the rack, you don’t want it so tight that the glass is difficult to slide in and out of the rack.
Make marks on the outside edges of the rack for alignment. You can also shoot nail brads in the rack as you position it, then come back and screw it to the bottom frame support with exterior screws. Make small dots on each end of the board where the screws should go. Use a countersink bit to drill the screw holes in each piece of the rack. Attach the rack to the bottom frame supports with 1 1/4″ exterior screws. BE CAREFUL AND GO SLOW as you drill the screws. If you drill too fast the board may split.
Based on the wine glasses that I used, the left side rack piece in the photo below measured 10″ from the outside of the left side stand leg and 5 3/4″ from the outside edge of the left rack piece to the outside edge of the right rack piece. Once you have the measurements for the left side rack, install the third rack piece flush against the second. Space the fourth rack piece out at the same distance as the first two pieces and attach it to the bottom frame support.
Step 18 – Stain
A high-quality stain will help the stand last against the outdoor elements and weather. I used PPG/ Sikkens ProLux Cetol Log & Siding Stain in the Cedar 077 color. It’s fairly expensive, but this stain is often used on log homes or other wood exterior siding so it will help the stand last as long as any other comparable stain.
The stain seals the wood very well to protect it against the outdoor elements. You can use another stain that is a bit more budget-friendly such as Minwax Helmsman Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane as an alternative.
I do recommend spending the money on a high-quality stain/urethane to help the stand last as long as possible outdoors.
It takes about a 1/2 gallon to apply two coats to the entire stand. Make sure that you stain the underside surfaces as well (turn it over and stain the bottom of the frame supports, bottom trim and the interior pieces) to seal all of the pieces. 2 coats are recommended to get the optimal protection that the stain provides.
Thanks for stopping by Southeast4x4trails.com! If you are looking for a detailed guide on how to install a GMRS radio or Ham radio in your Jeep or off-road vehicle you have come to the right place. Keep reading for more details about this 5-part series on my radio install project.
If you have found your way here via Google, this site is about the Jeep, 4×4, and off-road community in the Southeast US. Check out the home page for an interactive Google map of trails, off-road parks, forest service roads, points of interest and more in the GA, TN, NC, and SC areas. The Journal has other articles similar to this one on topics of interest such as “how-to” guides, trails and places to visit, and local history. The Resources page has many links to mapping, GIS, USFS forest areas, and technical info.
This is the fifth in a series of 5 posts that detail the install of a Midland MXT400 MicroMobile GRMS radio and Icom IC-2730A ham radio in my Jeep Wrangler TJ. You can adapt this information to any vehicle, it doesn’t have to be a Jeep TJ or even a Jeep!
This post will cover the radio RF ground wires, running the radio power cables, running the antenna coaxial cables, attaching the PL-259 connectors to the antenna coaxial cables, and SWR meter testing.
Part 1 includes a complete list of all the radio gear, tools, parts, and hardware that I used.
If you want to jump directly to the install info just click one of the links below:
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
Parts List
The following parts were used in this post: ■ Midland MXT400 Power Cable (supplied with radio) ■ Icom IC-2730A Power Cable (supplied with radio) ■ RFI RFU-505-ST PL-259 UHF Crimp Style Coaxial Cable Connector (Qty: 2) – Antenna Farm or Ham Radio Outlet ■ Belden 14 Gauge Primary Wire in Red and Black (25-foot roll) – NAPA Auto Parts ■ Tyco Electronics 16-14 Gauge Heat-Shrink Spade & Ring Terminals for #8-#10 Stud – Home Depot ■ Dorman 16-14 Gauge Butt/Crimp Connectors (85436) – Advance Auto ■ Everbilt M4-0.7 X 8MM Phillips Flat Head Screw (574629) – Home Depot ■ Ideal Ground Screws (774042) – Home Depot ■ Storehouse 42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing – Harbor Freight Tools ■ XHF 160 Piece Clear Heat Shrink Tubing – Amazon ■ Gardner Bender 3.5 Foot Wire Spiral Wrap (FLX-538C10) – Home Depot ■ Littelfuse ATO 15 Amp Smart Glow Fuse (Qty: 2) (0AT0015.VPGLO ) – Amazon ■ Avery 06141 File Folder Labels – Amazon ■ Magnetic Mic Microphone Hanger – Amazon (Optional)
Tool List
The following tools were used in this post: ■ IWISS Ratchet Crimping Tool Set w/ 22-10 Gauge Wire Die – Amazon ■ LP DL-801G Ratchet Crimping Tool for RG58 Coaxial Cable – Ham Radio Outlet ■ Wagner Spraytech Heat Gun – Amazon ■ Wera PH0 Precision Screwdriver – Amazon ■ Dremel Rotary Tool – Amazon ■ Dremel 428 Carbon Steel Wire Brush – Amazon ■ Milwaukee 48-89-4607 Shockwave 5/32” Titanium Drill Bit – Amazon ■ Xacto Black Gripster Knife – Amazon ■ Surecom SW-102 S0239 Digital SWR Meter – Amazon ■ Superbat Male PL-259 to Male PL-259 RG-58 Coaxial Jumper Cable – Amazon (Optional)
Radio System Guide & Wiring Diagram
The graphic below shows the entire radio system and how each component is connected and wired. All parts that are in front of the ‘Jeep Firewall’ box are mounted in the engine compartment. Click to download the diagram in PDF format.
The components that are covered in this post are shown below in red.
1. Wire The Radio RF Grounds
Both radios should be grounded to a bare metal surface. The radio RF grounds make sure that both radios maintain the same RF voltage. This is also known as “bonding”.
To make the radio RF ground wires, cut two pieces of 14 gauge primary wire long enough to reach from the body of each radio up to the top of the overhead console. Strip away enough of the wire shielding to attach a 16-14 gauge ring terminal for a #8-#10 stud and slide a piece of 1/4″ marine heat shrink over the wire before you crimp (attach) the terminal to the wire.
Constrict the heat shrink with a heat gun. Attach a ring terminal and piece of marine heat shrink to the other end of the wire as well. Do the same with the second piece of primary wire.
On the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio, there is a pre-drilled hole on the rear of the radio body and in the center of the heat sink fins. This is a perfect place to attach the RF ground wire to the radio. Use an M4-0.7 X 8MM Phillips flat head screw to attach the terminal to the radio body.
On the Icom IC-2730A ham radio, there is a small screw on the side of the radio body near the rear. Use a PH0 precision screwdriver and slowly turn the screw to remove it. Do not do this quickly or you will risk stripping the screw head because it is so small.
Insert the screw through the ring terminal on the second piece of wire and re-attach it to the radio body.
2. Attach The RF Ground Wires To The Overhead Console
As mentioned above, the ring terminals should make contact with a bare metal surface. Use a Dremel rotary tool and a Dremel carbon steel brush attachment to remove a portion of the coating on the top of the overhead console.
The coating on the overhead console is pretty thick (and durable), so take your time while removing the coating and let the brush do the work. You only need to remove enough of the coating so that the area is large enough to screw both of the ring terminals to the overhead console.
Clean the area to make sure it is free of any residue from the console coating and drill shavings. Secure the ring terminals against the overhead console with two Ideal ground screws. These ground screws are a #10-32 in size. Gather the wires together and secure them with a zip tie as well.
Before you start routing the wires remove the plastic trim that is around the windshield. The power cables will be hidden by these trim pieces.
Attach each power cable to its connector on the radio body. Gently pull the plastic trim piece back that runs along the top of the windshield and insert each cable between the windshield frame and the trim piece – one cable at a time.
I zipped tied the power cables together once they were inserted between the trim piece and the windshield frame to keep them together. The plastic trim piece will not sit completely flush against the windshield once it is re-tightened, as the power cable wires will stick out of it at the top.
On the passenger side of the Jeep, route the power cables along the top of the windshield and then down the side of the windshield, behind the dashboard, and to the floor of the Jeep. I used zip ties to secure the cables to the existing factory wiring as shown in the photo below on the right below.
Since the floor of the Jeep does get hot, it is a good idea to cover the power cables in plastic spiral wrap for protection. Start the spiral wrap where the cable touches the floor and run it along the length of the cable to where it will connect to the distribution fuse block underneath the passenger seat.
It is easy to forget which power cable attaches to which radio, so it is also a good idea to label both cables for easy identification. Use an Avery 06141 file folder label on each wire and cover it with a piece of clear heat shrink. I placed the labels at a point on the cables that is near where the cables connect to the distribution fuse block.
4. Extend The Power Cable For the Midland MXT400
The power cable for the Icom IC-2730A was long enough to reach from the radio to the distribution fuse block. The power cable for the Midland MXT400 was not, however.
Extending the power cable is straightforward. Cut two lengths of 14 gauge primary wire that are long enough to run from where the MXT400 power cable stops to the distribution fuse block. Leave some extra slack in case you need to re-terminate the connectors on the cables in the future. Match red primary wire to the red wire on the MXT400 power cable, and black to black.
Cover the MXT400 power cable and the extension wires in plastic spiral wrap where they make contact with the floor of the Jeep as you did for the Icom IC-2730A power cable.
5. Attach The Power Cables To The Distribution Fuse Block
Remove the Phillips head screws for 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals on the distribution fuse block. If you are looking at the fuse block as shown in the photo below, the two positive terminals are those that have slots for the 15A fuses, and the negative terminals are those that do not have slots for the fuses.
I attached the power cable for the Icom IC-2730A to the terminals on the right side of the fuse block, and the power cable for the Midland MXT400 on the left side of the fuse block (as shown by the labels on each power cable).
Zip tie the power cable extension wires together for the MXT400. Insert two 15A fuses into the slots for each power cable. I also used the labels that are included with the Blue Sea Systems distribution fuse block and put them on the fuse block cover. ‘M’ is for the Midland MXT400 and “I” is for the Icom IC-2730A.
NOTE: Both of the radio power cables have 15A in-line fuses installed from the factory. Theoretically, you don’t need 2 sets of fuses (one in-line and one on the distribution fuse block). You could remove the inline fuse holders and use 16-14 gauge butt connectors to connect the power cable wires together, but I decided to leave them in place in case I ever removed the power cables and wanted to use them in another vehicle in the future.
Just keep in mind that if a fuse does blow, be sure to check both the in-line fuse and the fuse in the distribution fuse block. If you do choose to remove the in-line fuse holders, use a piece of marine heat shrink to cover each butt connector to protect it against water.
6. Route The Antenna Coaxial Cable
Routing the antenna coax cable is pretty much the same as routing the radio power cables. Route the coax cable behind the plastic windshield trim and secure it in place with zip ties.
The coax cable for the Midland MXT400 is routed on the passenger side (the antenna for the MXT400 is mounted on the passenger side fender), and the coax cable for the Icom IC-2730A is routed on the driver side of the windshield (the antenna is mounted on the driver side fender). Pass both coax cables out of the plastic windshield trim at the top just as you did with the power cables.
Determine how much length is needed for the coax cable to reach the antenna output connectors on the radio bodies. Keep in mind you will still need to attach the PL-259 connectors to the end of the coax cable. It’s best to leave extra slack and trim it down if needed. This also gives you enough coax cable to re-terminate (install new connectors) if needed in the future as well.
While some extra slack is not an issue, the coax cables should only be as long as they need to be to reach the antenna output connectors on radio bodies. Coiling up the excess coax cable and not cutting it to length is a bad idea and it will impact the overall radio/antenna performance and SWR measurements.
The antenna output connector is on the left side of the Icom IC-2730A radio body and the right side of the Midland MXT400 radio body (if you are looking at the radio body from the rear).
Label both of the coax cables as well so it is easy to identify which cable goes to which antenna.
7. Attach The PL-259 Connectors
This was one of the most difficult steps of the install for me. Mainly that is because I had never installed connectors onto a piece of coax cable before. If it is your first time installing connectors as well, these are a couple of tips that I would suggest:
Order EXTRA PL-259 connectors and use them to practice the installation first
Use a piece of the excess coax cable that you cut when trimming in step 6 (or buy a few feet of extra cable) to practice
I ended up making a short jumper coax cable with my practice installations – you can use this jumper cable in step 8 for the SWR meter testing. I used a length of coax cable that was about 12″ and installed two of the extra PL-259 connectors onto each end
You can buy a special tool for stripping RG-58 coax cable. I bought one and it ended up cutting too deep and through most of the braided shielding on the coax cable. The depth of the cut is usually adjustable, but I didn’t want to go through the process of adjusting/cutting so I just used a sharp Xacto knife and made multiple, shallow cuts on the coax cable until it was properly stripped.
Use the crimp style PL-259 connectors. There is debate over the quality of the connection on a solder vs. crimp style connector, but the crimp style connector is far easier to install and is perfectly suitable for this application (and is used in many professional radio gear installations as well).
You will need two PL-259 connectors and the ratcheting crimping tool mentioned above. I used the RFI RFU-505-ST connectors and the LP DL-801G ratchet crimping tool for RG-58 coax cable/connectors.
Before you strip the coax cable, slide the PL-259 connector ferrule and connector body over the coax. Also cut a piece of marine heat shrink and slide it down the coax cable as well. The order for each piece is marine heat shrink (covers the ferrule once crimped) > ferrule > connector body. Do this for both coax cables.
Next, manually strip enough of the coax cable to install the connector. Be CAREFUL when stripping – if you make several errors while stripping and have to cut the coax cable and start there is a chance of it becoming too short to reach the antenna connector output on the radio body. If this happens you will have to remove, replace and re-run the coax cableall the way from the antenna mounting brackets that are on the fender of the Jeep – this is A LOT of work to undo and redo.
You can use the top of the overhead console as a solid workspace while stripping the coax cables as well.
I watched many videos on YouTube on how to install the PL-259 connectors. You can find them by searching the term ‘how to crimp PL-259 connectors‘. The type of coax used in this project is RG-58.
The die size to use on the ratchet crimping tool is .213 for the connector ferrule and .069 for the center conductor wire.
This is one of the better videos that I watched and used it primarily to learn how to do the installation. It’s much easier to watch someone do it than to try and learn from just photos. Remember, PRACTICE FIRST before you install the connectors on the “real” coax cables for the radio antennas!
Once the connectors are installed, screw them onto the antenna connector outputs on the radio bodies and make sure they are snug.
Reinstall the plastic windshield shield trim pieces and your install is COMPLETE!!!
8. SWR Meter Testing
A SWR meter, or “standing wave ratio” (also known as a VSWR meter – voltage standing wave ratio) is used to test the SWR ratio of a transmission line (the antenna coax cable). This is the ratio of how much of the output power from the radio is being delivered to the antenna and how much power is reflected by the antenna and back to the radio.
Measuring SWR is important for two reasons. First, if too much power is being reflected by the antenna back to the radio it can cause significant damage to the radio depending on how high the SWR ratio is. Second, it is a tool that can be used to tune the antenna for optimal signal transmission and performance.
An SWR reading of 2.0 or numerically lower is generally considered safe to operate without the worry of radio damage. Any SWR reading numerically higher than 2.0 is considered increasingly unsafe and you risk the potential of damage. An SWR reading of 3.0 or higher means you will damage the radio if you are transmitting for an extended amount of time.
The “ideal” SWR reading is in the 1.0 to 1.5 range.
I used the Surecom SW-102 S0239 Digital SWR Meter and an RG-58 coaxial cable jumper of about 12″ that I made with the excess coax cable and male PL-259 connectorswhile practicing the connector installation (as mentioned above in step 7). You can also purchase pre-made coax jumper cables as well.
The SWR meter has to female PL-259 connectors on each side. Attach the coax jumper cable to the antenna output on either radio and the other end of the jumper cable to the input on the left side of the meter labeled TX. Attach the coax cable that runs to the antenna to the connector on the right side of the meter labeled ANT.
Make sure you are in an open area such as an empty parking lot and at least 20 feet away from any buildings, structures, vehicles, or metal objects. If they are closer than 20 feet it can affect the signal being transmitted to the antenna and in turn, the SWR meter reading could be inaccurate.
On the Surcom SW-102 SWR Meter, press and hold the red button to power the meter on. Once it is on, by default it is set up to take the SWR reading when you key the radio microphone to transmit.
Typical advice when testing SWR for an amateur radio (or GMRS for the Midland MXT400) is to start at the bottom of the band and take a reading, tune to the middle of the band and take a reading, then tune to the top of the band and take the third reading. This allows you to measure the average SWR reading across the entire band.
So, on the Icom IC-2730A ham radio on the 2-meter band that would be 144 Mhz on the low end of the band, about 146 Mhz in the middle of the band, and 148 MHz on the upper end of the band. For the 70-cm band that would be 420 Mhz, 440 Mhz, and 450 Mhz, respectively.
On the Midland MXT400 GMRS radio, you could take readings at the 462 MHz portion of the band (channels 1-7), 467 Mhz portion of the band (channels 8-14), and then again at 462 MHz but at higher GMRS power (channels 15-22). See this frequency chart for the specific frequencies for each channel and allowed output power.
These frequencies are approximations and don’t have to be exact, so make sure the frequency is clear before you transmit.
When you key the microphone to transmit, the SWR reading will display on the meter. It also measures the actual output power as well.
These are photos of the actual SWR readings I took after I finished the install. On the left, you can see that the SWR reading was 1.95 on 146.010 MHz at an output power of 46.4W (not quite the 50-watt max output power) for the Icom IC-2730A.
On the right, the SWR for the Midland MXT400 was 2.01 on 462.550 MHz at 32.3 watts (also not quite the max output power of 40 watts).
Depending on the SWR readings that you get, you can determine if additional antenna or system tuning is needed. I did not take any further steps to tune the antennas based on these two readings, but I may do so in the future.
This is completely optional, but I did find it to be very helpful while on the trail. The Magnetic Mic microphone hanger replaces the hanger that is supplied with the radio. It isn’t compatible with the Icom IC-2730A mic, but it does work with the Midland MXT400 mic. Most of the people I ride with use GRMS radios on the trail, so the mic for the MXT400 is the one that I take on and off its hanger all day.
The Magnetic Mic hanger is exactly what it sounds like. It has a strong magnetic base and another magnet that attaches the circular piece on the back of the MXT400 mic. Since the magnet is very strong, all you have to do is get the mic in the general area of the hanger base and it will snap to it. Very handy while bouncing up and down on the trails.
Wrapping Up
Congratulations on completing this installation project. It is far more work than your average ham or GMRS radio install. You can rest easy knowing that your radio system is made up of top quality gear and is installed the right way. I think you will be pleased with the radio system’s performance.
Feel free to reach out to me with any questions that you might have and I will do my best to help. You can reach me via e-mail from the About page or on Facebook at Southeast4x4Trails.com.
You can find any of the points in this e-mail by clicking the magnifying glass (search) icon on the map legend (left-hand side of the map) on the home page and typing in the name of the point.
2 new GPS routes, USFS Forest Service Roads, points of interest (things to see), campgrounds, and an outdoor shooting range have been added to the map. See the list below for details.
The points on this map are a collection of places I have visited and also that others have shared. Please respect the property rights of others and do not trespass on privately owned property or on trails or roads that are closed. The points with a gray pin are closed or inactive. When planning to travel on USFS Forest Service Roads always check the status of the road at the USFS Visitor Map as some roads are closed seasonally and some are open year-round. You can also check the USFS Forest Service Road Google Map for road status as well.
I try to keep the map updated to note when a trail or road is closed, but please reply to this e-mail or send me a message via the form on the ‘About’ page if you visit a point on the map that needs to be updated.
GPS Routes
The Great Smoky Mountains Jeep Road Trip & Off Road Adventure!
Click to learn more about this trip and download the route GPS GPX or KML files.
This is a 375-mile loop that starts at the GA/NC state line and travels through GA, NC, TN, Nantahala National Forest, and The Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
It covers 33 paved roads, 5 USFS Forest Service roads, and has over 30 unique points of interest and things to see!
Murphy, NC to Deals Gap, NC
This route starts in Murphy, NC and travels across US Forest Service and paved roads to Deals Gap, NC. At Deals Gap it picks up at US Hwy 129 which is also known as the “Tail of the Dragon”. The route ends at the north entrance to the Tail of the Dragon on the TN side. This route has many interesting things to see along the way as highlighted below!
It covers 6 USFS Forest Service Roads, paved roads and multiple points of interest such as the Tail of the Dragon Scenic Overlook, Stewart Cabin Historical Site, Cheoah River Suspension Bridge & Rapids and the Cheoah Dam & Powerhouse (where a scene from the 1993 movie The Fugitive was filmed).
Forest Service Roads
Added the following Forest Service Roads in NC:
Forest Service Road 69 – Wayah Bald (Topton, NC)
Forest Service Road 308 – Beachertown (Topton, NC)
Forest Service Road 422 – Winding Stairs (Topton, NC)
Forest Service Road 711 – Winesprings Whiteoak (Topton, NC)
Points of Interest / Features
Whiteside Mountain Hiking Trail (Cashiers, NC)
Secret Falls Hiking Trail (Highlands, NC)
Secret Falls (Highlands, NC)
Stewart Cabin Historical Site (Lake Santeetlah, NC)
Cheoah River Suspension Bridge (Robbinsville, NC)
Bear Creek Rapid – Cheoah River (Robbinsville, NC)
Tapoco Lodge & Tavern (Tapoco, NC)
Cheoah Dam & Powerhouse (Robbinsville, NC)
Blue Hole Public Fishing Area (Robbinsville, NC)
Tail of the Dragon (Robinsville, NC / Tallassee, TN)
Tail of the Dragon Scenic Overlook (Chilhowee, TN)
Fields of the Wood (Murphy, NC)
Needmore Road Suspension Bridge (Bryson City, NC)
Nantahala Outdoor Center (Bryson City, NC)
Old Train Tunnel (Bryson City, NC)
Queens Creek Lake (Bryson City, NC)
Wishon’s Fishing Hole (Topton, NC)
Look Rock Hiking Trail (Tallassee, TN)
Look Rock Observation Tower (Tallassee, TN)
Foothills Parkway & Extension (Tallassee, TN)
Elkmont Historic District (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Chimney Tops Overlook (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Oconaluftee Valley Overlook (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Mingus Mill (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Mountain Farm Museum (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Bigfoot Statue @ Cataloochee (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Cataloochee Valley Overlook (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Jarvis Palmer House @ Cataloochee (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Palmer Chapel Methodist Church @ Cataloochee (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Beech Grove School @ Cataloochee (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Hiram Caldwell House @ Cataloochee (Great Smoky Mountains National Park)
Wilson Lick Ranger Station (Franklin, NC – Forest Service Road 69 – Wayah Bald)
Wayah Bald Summit & Lookout Tower (Franklin, NC – Forest Service Road 69 – Wayah Bald)
Every year my family usually takes a vacation over the Christmas and New Year holidays. Being that 2020 was the year of COVID and social distancing, most of the activities we did this year were outside. Exploring in the Jeep, hiking, fishing, and just enjoying the outdoors in general. My daughter just turned 2 in December, so she is big enough for a front-facing car seat which makes for a much more comfortable Jeep trip experience for her.
While I was looking for vacation ideas for this year, I came across a blog post from Wander North Georgia titled Road Trip Rambles: A River, A Bald, And a Beer In Western Carolina. The post details a trip that starts in the North Georgia town of Clayton, GA, and travels to Franklin, NC along the Little Tennessee River, the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Bryson City, NC, and back to Franklin, NC to the summit of Wayah Bald. There is a lookout tower atop the 5,342-foot summit of the mountain.
Side note on the Wander North Georgia store: It is a wonderful store in downtown Clayton, GA that carries outdoor and hiking gear, curated products, and has one of the best book selections I have found in the state. The owners are local to Clayton Rabun County, and they also give back to the local community through their 1 percent for Rabun County initiative. I attended high school at the Rabun Gap Nachoochee School which is in Rabun Gap, GA just north of Clayton. This school had a huge impact on my trajectory in life, and Rabun County and its people are near and dear to me. Seeing this store succeed and thrive in Clayton is very satisfying. If you are ever in the area, make sure you stop by the store and check it out.
I started looking at the map to plan out the route and as one thing let to another I was on the way to planning a Great Smoky Mountain family vacation! We love a good mountain trip, and since the drive from Atlanta to the Smoky Mountains isn’t that far I figured we could make a 3 or 4-day excursion out of the trip detailed in the Wander North Georgia post. After all, who doesn’t mind fun, family-friendly free things to do in the Smoky Mountains!
While in GA we don’t always see snow on a regular basis during the winter, the Smoky Mountains in winter do. Given the higher elevation of these mountains, there are typically seasonal closures of roads and trails due to ice and snow. It can be both picturesque and quite dangerous at the same time.
While planning the trip I searched for things like “smoky mountain jeep trails”, “jeep smoky mountain”, “smoky mountains road trip”, “driving trails near me” and “best scenic drives near me” and put the notable results together in what I named The Great Smoky Mountains Jeep Road Trip & Off Road Adventure.
The trip starts (and returns to) at the Georgia/North Carolina state line and covers approximately 375 miles through 33 paved roads and 5 USFS Forest Service Roads. There are 30 unique points of interest or things to see or do. It travels through 11 cities and towns, the Nantahala National Forest, and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. We covered the distance in 3 days and 4 nights.
I hope you enjoy the trip and make memories as my family did. Be sure to tag me (@Southeast4x4Trails) any photos you share on Facebook or Instagram!
NOTE: Downloadable GPS or mapping application files are available in GPX and KML formats via the links below. You can import these files into your app or GPS device of choice and follow the exact route that we took.
These are some of the points of interest and things to see along the route:
Julep Farms While not directly on the route, Julep Farms is in Dillard, GA just a few minutes away from the GA/NC state line off of Hwy GA 246 which runs into Highlands, NC. We stayed in one of the four rental cottages the night before we started the trip and loved it (see the photo below). The property also features an upscale restaurant (Julep Kitchen), a market (Julep Market), coffee bar, garden, space for outdoor games and a few farm animals. The entire property is decorated in a modern farmhouse style and looks great. Click to learn more.
Nantahala Outdoor Center Located on the Nantahala River in Bryson City, NC, the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) is a center for whitewater rafting and kayaking. It is also the largest outdoor recreation company in the US. They operate guided whitewater rafting trips on a number of rivers in NC and TN. 2 restaurants, lodging, an outfitter store and other outdoor activities are located on-site.
Wishon’s Fishing Hole Also on the Nantahala River in Aquone, NC Wishon’s fishing hole is a handicap accessible concrete fishing pier that offers access to the Upper Nantahala river off of Wayah Rd. The section of the river from White Oak Creek up to the Duke Energy Power Plant (where the pier is located) is classified as delayed harvest trout waters. This means that on this section of the river, you can only fish with artificial, single hook lures and fishing is catch-and-release only from October until June. The Nantahala is also rated as a top 100 river in North America by Trout Unlimited.
Tail Of The Dragon / Hwy 129 Hwy 129 gained its nickname the “Tail of the Dragon” because it has 318 sharp curves over the course of 11 miles. It is very popular with motorcycle riders and sports car drivers, and many of them drive the road at very high speeds. There are photographers that are stationed at various curves along the road who take photos of each vehicle throughout the day (typically on the weekends or holidays). You can buy the photos online if you would like a copy of them.
If you drive the road on the weekend please drive slow, stay in your lane and watch out for oncoming cars. Multiple accidents and even fatalities occur on this road every year.
Greenback Castle / Fortress Of Faith Located in Greenback, TN, the Greenback Castle is a brick and cinderblock castle that Floyd Banks Jr. has been building by had for the past 30 years. It is nicknamed the “Fortress Of Faith” due to the numerous spiritual messages and references on the property, but you have to visit this one in person to get the full effect and take it all in.
Look Rock Observation Tower The hike from the Look Rock parking area to the tower is only 0.5 miles. From the top of the tower, there are 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the highest mountain peaks of the Great Smoky Mountain range. The elevation atop the tower is 2,696 feet. The peak of the mountain also is home to an air quality monitoring station. Visit and read the signs that are on-site to learn more about the tower and why the air quality monitoring station is located at Look Rock.
Foothills Parkway & “Missing Link” Extension Construction of the Foothills Parkway started in 1966, but a 1.65-mile section of it between Walland and Wears Valley, TN wasn’t completed and opened to the public until November 10, 2018. That last 1.65-mile stretch is referred to as the “missing link“. Today the Foothills Parkway spans 16 miles and the sections are connected by 9 bridges. It offers excellent panoramic views and scenic overlook areas. It is open year-round, weather (snow and ice) permitting. Look Rock is located on the Foothills Parkway.
Elkmont Historic District Located inside of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the Elkmont Historic District was home to a clubhouse and community of cabins from the early 20th century. Notable business leaders from the Knoxville area used it as a summer retreat. There are still some cabins dating back to this period that you can visit. Today it is home to a decent size group campground, but it was closed when we visited in December 2020 as it closes seasonally on November 1. Check the NPS Group Campgrounds status page before you visit.
Chimney Tops Mountain Also located within the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Chimney Tops is easily visible from US 441 / Newfound Gap Rd which is the main road that runs through the park. The peak is at 4,724 feet and it has “twin peaks” or a double-capstone knob that are bare rock. The Cherokee Indians referred to Chimney Tops as Duniskwalgunyi which means “forked antler” per its resemblance to deer antlers. Early settlers in the area referred to the knobs as a pair of stone chimneys. The 2016 wildfires that damaged much of the Smoky Mountains also swept across Chimney Tops. It is also said that the wildfires actually started at Chimney Tops. The trail to the summit is now closed due to the fires, but a new viewing platform was built about 1.75 miles into the trail and re-opened in October 2017.
Clingmans Dome Clingmans Dome is both the highest point in Tennessee and the highest point in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at an elevation of 6,643 feet. An iconic circular observation tower is located at the summit which can be accessed via a 0.5 mile paved trail. Clingmans Dome Rd is off of Hwy 441 / Newfound Gap Road (within the park) and runs 7 miles to the Clingmans Dome Visitor Center. The road is closed seasonally from December through March, but the observation tower is open year-round to those that want to hike in.
Mingus Mill Minus Mill was a turbine-powered gristmill that was built in 1886. It was used to grind corn into meal and wheat into flour for the residents of the community that was established near Mingus Creek. Water was used to turn the gristmill’s stone which was fed to a water-powered cast-iron turbine. The wooden flume line is still intact at the site today. This was the largest gristmill in the Smoky Mountains for its time.
CataloocheeValley Located about 34 miles northeast from the park’s southern entrance in Cherokee, NC, the Cataloochee Valley settlement was the largest in the Smoky Mountains around 1910. When this area within the park is open, you can visit some of the historic buildings from the community such as the Caldwell House, Beech Grove School, Palmer Chapel and Palmer House. The hiking trails in this area are also known for their opportunities to view wildlife. Check the status to see if the area is open before you visit.
Wayah Bald & Lookout Tower Off of Forest Service Road 69 – Wayah Bald lies the first ranger station that was built in the Nantahala National Forest – Wilson Lick which was constructed in 1913. 3 miles past the ranger station is the summit of Wayah Bald at 5,342 feet. A short paved trail runs from the summit to the Wayah Bald Fire Tower. You can see Franklin, NC, and portions of the Appalachian Mountains in Georiga, Tenessee, North and South Carolina from the tower. Forest Service Road 69 is closed seasonally from January 1st to April 1st.
US Forest Service Road Status Please check the status of any Forest Service Roads that you plan to travel on prior to starting your trip. Visit the USFS Interactive Visitor Map and choose the search icon in the box at the top of the page and enter the name of the Forest Service Road. Click on the road name in the results and then click the map marker icon to view the details for the road.
It is also good practice to check the “Alerts & Notices” section of the USFS website for the forest that the road is in. When roads are closed they are typically updated on these pages. Click the links below to visit the page for the Nantahala National Forests. Responsible use will benefit all of us so the roads can be properly maintained and open for our enjoyment.
Thanks for stopping by Southeast4x4trails.com! If you are looking for a detailed guide on how to install a GMRS radio or Ham radio in your Jeep or off-road vehicle you have come to the right place. Keep reading for more details about this 5-part series on my radio install project.
If you have found your way here via Google, this site is about the Jeep, 4×4, and off-road community in the Southeast US. Check out the home page for an interactive Google map of trails, off-road parks, forest service roads, points of interest and more in the GA, TN, NC, and SC areas. The Journal has other articles similar to this one on topics of interest such as “how-to” guides, trails and places to visit, and local history. The Resources page has many links to mapping, GIS, USFS forest areas, and technical info.
This is the fourth in a series of 5 posts that detail the install of a Midland MXT400 MicroMobile GRMS radio and Icom IC-2730A ham radio in my Jeep Wrangler TJ. You can adapt this information to any vehicle, it doesn’t have to be a Jeep TJ or even a Jeep!
This post will cover the radio electrical distribution system and the installation of the maxi fuse block, 6-circuit power distribution block, Lind shutdown timer, Insultherm braided shielding and the manual override switch.
Part 1 includes a complete list of all the radio gear, tools, parts, and hardware that I used.
If you want to jump directly to the install info just click one of the links below:
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed in the post through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
Parts List
The following parts were used in this post: ■ Lind SDT1230-022 Shutdown Timer – Amazon | Lind ■ I bought 2 of these in new condition on Amazon for $22.99. The retail price from Lind is $81.95. ■ Blue Sea Systems Maxi Fuse Block / In-Line Fuse Holder (5006) – Amazon ■ Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block (6 Circuit w/ Negative Stud Terminals ) (5025) – Amazon ■ Blue Sea Systems Contura II Off-(ON) SPST Switch – Amazon ■ Daystar Universal Firewall Boot (KU20040BK) – Amazon | Quadratech ■ Insultherm High Temp Braided Sleeving – 1.5″ and 5/8″ – Wire Care ■ WindyNation 8 AWG Gauge Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire – 30 Feet, Red (Battery Positive) – Amazon ■ Windy Nation 8 AWG Gauge Pure Copper Flexible Cable Wire – 15 Feet, Black (Battery Negative) – Amazon ■ Belden 14 Gauge Primary Wire in Red, Black (25 Feet) – NAPA Auto Parts ■ Selterm Heavy Duty Bare Copper Terminals for 8 AWG Gauge Wire, #10 Ring Stud– Amazon (Qty: 6) ■ Selterm Heavy Duty Bare Copper Terminals for 8 AWG Gauge Wire, 1/4” Ring Stud – Amazon (Qty: 1) ■ NAPA Auto Parts In-Line Mini Fuse Holder (784667) – NAPA Auto Parts ■ Blue Sea Systems 30 Amp Maxi Fuse (5138) – Amazon ■ Littelfuse ATO 15 Amp Smart Glow Fuse (Qty: 2) (0AT0015.VPGLO ) – Amazon ■ Littelfuse 5 Amp Mini Fuse (0MIN005.VP) – Amazon ($3.81) ■ Dorman 16-14 Gauge Butt/Crimp Connectors (85436) – Advance Auto ■ Dorman 16-14 Gauge 1/4″ Ring Terminal (85409) – Advance Auto (Qty: 1) ■ NAPA Auto Parts 16 to 14 Gauge Step Down Butt/Crimp Connector – NAPA Auto Parts ■ Tyco Electronics Raychem #10 Spade & Ring Terminals for 16-14 Gauge Wire – Home Depot (Qty: 1) ■ MaxBrite 16-14 Gauge Fully Insulated Female Disconnect Terminals – Amazon (Qty: 2) ■ Ideal Ground Screws (774042) – Home Depot ■ Storehouse 42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing (Qty: 2) – Harbor Freight Tools ■ XHF 160 Piece Clear Heat Shrink Tubing – Amazon ■ Gardner Bender 3/8” & 1/2” Electrical Split Flex Tubing (FLX-538C10) – Home Depot ■ Gardner Bender 3.5 Foot Wire Spiral Wrap (FLX-538C10) – Home Depot ■ Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Mounting Tape – Amazon ■ Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Flat White Primer (7780830) – Amazon ■ Rust-Oleum Flat Black Protective Enamel (7776830) – Amazon ■ Rust-Oleum Universal Dead Flat Clear Durable Topcoat (342482) – Amazon
Radio System Guide & Wiring Diagram
The graphic below shows the entire radio system and how each component is connected and wired. All parts that are in front of the ‘Jeep Firewall’ box are mounted in the engine compartment. Click to download the diagram inPDF format.
The components that are covered in this post are shown below in red.
1. Install The Maxi Fuse Block
Before your start step 1 make sure you DISCONNECT the battery terminals from the battery.
The maxi fuse block protects the radio power system against high or excess current flow if something fails. Maxi fuses are larger than your “regular size” ATO/ATC fuses, and are typically designed specifically for higher amperage vehicle electric systems.
The Blue Sea Systems 5006 Maxi Fuse Block encloses both the fuse and the connector terminals within the plastic housing. This is important because the maxi-fuse block is mounted in the Jeep engine compartment and will be exposed to the elements. This fuse block accepts maxi fuses from 30-80 amps, but a Blue Sea Systems 5138 30 amp maxi-fuse is sufficient for the radio power system.
Mount the maxi fuse block on the passenger side above the headlight wiring on the inside of the front grille. This is the same side that the Jeep’s battery is located on.
Use a #10-16 x 1/2″ self-drilling screw to secure it to the body. Also, leave the terminal screws on the fuse block loose for now. You will need to attach the wire
terminals and if you tighten the screws the maxi fuse will not fully seat in position due to the tension applied by the terminal screws.
On the fuse block, the terminal on the right side will be the power from the Jeep’s battery and the left side will be the power run to the 6-circuit power distribution block inside the Jeep. Use a heavy gauge wire such as the Windy Nation 8 AWG gauge stranded wire in red (positive) for the power line from the battery to the fuse block terminal. I ordered 30 feet of the red wire and it was sufficient for the total install.
Using the wire, measure the distance from the battery positive terminal to the right terminal on the fuse block. I left a little slack and cut the wire a bit longer than it actually needed to be in case something happened when crimping the copper wire terminals on either end of the wire.
Leaving some slack also allows you to route the wire from the battery to the fuse block a bit easier as well. The terminal screws on the fuse block are #10 size. To crimp (attach) the copper terminal to the wire, strip back about 1/2″ of the exterior shielding on the wire and twist the wire strands to make sure they are wrapped together tightly. No wire strands should extend outside of the terminal when it is crimped.
On one end of the wire cut a ~1.5″ piece of 3/8″ marine heat shrink and slide it over the end of the wire. Next, attach a Selterm #10 ring stud 8 gauge heavy-duty copper terminal using a ratcheting crimping tool such as the Fryic ratchet crimping tool for 20-7 gauge wire. I found it easier to place the copper terminal in the crimping tool first, then insert the wire and crimp. The ratcheting crimping tool will make sure your crimp connection is tight around the wire. The ratchet motion allows you to create more force as compared to a fixed crimping tool creates.
However, before you crimp the connector test fit the stripped length of the wire into the terminal to make sure excess wire is not exposed outside of the end of the terminal. Ideally, just strip away enough of the shielding to fit the exposed wire into the terminal so that the wire shielding sits up against the end of the terminal. When crimping the terminal make sure you crimp the entire length. Complete one crimp, then slide the crimping tool over and complete another crimp. See the photos below for reference.
Once both terminals are attached to the wire, use a heat gun to contract the heat shrink material over the copper terminal and the wire. Heat the heat shrink material until you can see a bit of the glue expand outside of the ends of the heat shrink material. The marine heat shrink material uses this “glue” type material to create a seal that is resistant to water (marine).
Do not attach the wire to the battery post and fuse block quite yet. There are a couple of additional steps to complete first.
IMPORTANT – Label the red battery positive wire. It is easy to get the wires mixed up and forget which wire is which once you start routing them through the Jeep firewall and into the cabin.
For the labels, I used regular Avery 06141 file folder labels that you can buy on Amazon or at any office store. These labels have marks on each side at the center of the label. I aligned those marks with the center of the wire (as best I could). Attach the label to the wire, then slide a piece of clear heat shrink over the label and heat it up for a nice, weatherproof seal. I put ’12V+ to Maxi Fuse Block’ on the label.
After the label is attached to the wire, cover the entire length of the wire with both plastic spiral wrap and plastic split flex tube. This helps protect the wire from melting or damaged from heat since it is in the engine compartment of the Jeep. Use a plastic zip tie on each end of the wire to secure the spiral wrap and split flex tube in place. Make sure you pull the zip tie tight so the plastic tubing can not slide up and down on the wire. A zip tie puller tool helps to make sure the tie is tight and secure.
Next, repeat the same process to attach terminals to the wire that will run from the maxi fuse block, through the Jeep’s firewall and into the cabin and the Lind shutdown timer. This will provide the power to the shutdown timer, and in turn to the larger in-cabin 6-circuit fuse block.
Do not cut the length of the wire that will run through the firewall and into the cabin yet. That wire will be routed into the cabin first, then it can be cut to the appropriate length based on where it will connect to the terminal on the Lind shutdown timer. Once the wire is cut to that length, attach another Selterm #10 ring stud 8 gauge heavy-duty copper terminal.
Next, attach both pieces of wire to the terminals on the maxi fuse block. Turn the terminal connectors so the curve of the connector is facing the maxi fuse block – basically connecting them “backwards” so that the curvature of the connector faces inward. The cap to the maxi fuse block will not fit if you attach the connectors the other way. See the photo below for reference.
Before you tighten the terminals screws insert the maxi fuse into the fuse block. Then tighten the terminal screws and place the cover onto the fuse block.
I routed both wires so they run from the fuse block and through the space in between the air filter box and the Jeep fuse panel. I zip-tied both of the wires together then just tucked them down into the space between the air filter box and fuse panel.
Set the wires aside near the battery for now. There are a couple of other steps before you route them through the Insultherm bradied shielding and into the cabin of the Jeep.
2. Run Wire For 12V Constant Power To The Manual Override Switch
The reason for the manual override switch is explained below, but the next step is to wire up a source of 12V constant power that will connect to PIN 2 on the Blue Sea SPST (single-pole, single-throw) momentary switch. This power will be supplied directly from the battery positive terminal to PIN 2 on the switch.
I tried to find a fuse/circuit on the OEM interior Jeep fuse block that supplied constant 12V power, but all of the available or open fuses were ignition switched. This means that no power is present when the Jeep ignition is in the OFF position. For the switch to operate as needed, it requires a source of 12V constant power regardless of if the Jeep ignition is switched ON or OFF.
For now, you just need to attach a ring terminal to a length of 14 gauge wire such as Belden 14 gauge primary wire. I had some 14 gauge wire in green available, but you might consider using red (wire) to indicate that it is a “hot” power wire. If you are using a new roll wire (usually 25 feet) just attach the terminal to one end of the wire, then it can be cut to the appropriate length once the wire is routed through the firewall and into the Jeep cabin and switch.
Select the appropriate size ring terminal for your battery post. I used a Dorman 16-14 gauge wire 1/4″ ring terminal. Cut a piece of 1/4″ diameter marine heat shrink and slide it over the 14 gauge wire, then measure and strip the wire shielding.
Also, label the wire just as you did with the 8 gauge red power wire. I put ’12V Constant’ on the label. Cover the wire with the plastic spiral wrap and split flex tube from where the wire will connect to the battery post to where it will enter the Jeep firewall.
3. Install The Firewall Boot
I used a Daystar Universal Firewall Boot with a small modification to pass the wiring through the Jeep firewall. The firewall boot offers several advantages as compared to either just cutting a hole in the existing OEM firewall plug or removing it completely and passing the wiring through the factory firewall hole.
First, the boot gives a much more snug fit to hold the wiring in place. Second, it also offers protection against rain, dust or other elements from making their way into the Jeep cabin via the firewall hole.
I wrote another post on how to install the firewall boot which includes all the details and photos – How To Pass Wiring Through Your Jeep Wrangler TJ Firewall. This does only work for TJ’s with a manual transmission, however. See the post for more details about why.
I did cut off one additional section of the firewall boot to make enough room for all of the wiring to pass through the end of the boot that is in the Jeep engine compartment.
4. Route Wiring Through Insultherm Braided Sleeving
The path from the Jeep’s battery down to where the wiring will pass through the Jeep firewall runs very close to the exhaust manifold on the engine. This means that the wiring will be subject to high temperatures, and the last thing you want to do is have to re-run all the wiring again if it melts or fails due to high heat.
To protect the wiring against the heat, I used 2 sleeves of Insultherm high-temp braided sleeving. This sleeving is rated to protect up to temperatures of 1,200 degrees which is plenty sufficient for this application. I ordered a 3-foot piece of 1.5″ diameter sleeving and a 3-foot piece of 5/8″ diameter sleeving.
The following wiring will pass through the 1.5″ diameter Insultherm sleeving:
8 gauge red power wire for the Lind shutdown timer (from the maxi fuse block)
14 gauge 12V+ constant power wire for the manual override switch (from the Jeep battery)
Antenna coax for the Larsen NMO450CHW antenna (see part 3)
Cover the coax wire with spiral wrap and split flex tubing
The following wire will pass through the 5/8″ diameter Insultherm sleeving:
Antenna coax for the Larsen NMO 2/70B (see part 3)
Cover the coax wire with spiral wrap and split flex tubing
Start with the larger 1.5″ diameter sleeving. Pass the 3 wires listed above through the sleeving and towards the hole in the Jeep firewall.
Next, route the antenna coax for the Larsen NMO 2/70B antenna through the 5/8″ piece of Insultherm sleeving.
To pass the antenna coax through the Insultherm sleeving I detached the NMO mount from the mounting brackets on the front fenders. I used an electrician’s wire fish tape tool and attached the curved end of the fish tool around the NMO mount as shown below. I then pulled the antenna coax through the sleeving and re-attached the NMO mount to the mounting bracket. This will leave the bare (no connector yet) end of the antenna coax wire ready to pass through the firewall boot.
5. Pass Wiring Through Firewall Boot
Unfortunately, there is not really an “easy” way to pass all of the wiring through the firewall boot. First, I figured out where I could cut the split flex tubing on each wire so that the tubing stopped at the point where the wire entered the firewall boot. This leaves just the wire and spiral wrap to pass through the boot and into the Jeep cabin.
Next, I worked one wire at a time through the firewall boot. Hold the boot with one hand and work each wire through until you can grab it with something (either your hand or a pair of needle-nose pliers) and pull it through the boot and into the cabin. You will have to work each wire through slowly until you are able to grab it. I tried to use the wire fish tape tool to pull the wiring through the boot put given the available space in the boot it didn’t really work well at all.
Pass all 4 wires through the firewall boot and pull the slack through into the cabin. We will come back in a later step and secure the Insultherm sleeving in the engine bay. You may need some extra slack or to cut a wire to a shorter length once it is attached to its endpoint/component.
6. Mount The Lind Shutdown Timer
The Lind shutdown timer solves a couple of issues that I encountered when I first installed the radio system. Initially, I installed a 4-pin relay and a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch that had to be in an ON position to supply power to the radio system.
About a week after I finished the install I went to start the Jeep one day and the battery was dead. The DPDT switch had a light that was always on, so I suspect it slowly drained the battery. I charged the battery up once and it slowly discharged again, so I removed the relay and DPDT switch.
The Lind shutdown timer is designed to turn off after a preset amount of time once the Jeep engine is shut down. This kills all power to the radio system once the preset amount of time is reached. I set the timer to turn off 30 minutes after the Jeep engine is turned off. The timer also has a built-in relay to handle power switching.
You can use the SPST (single pole, single throw) manual override switch in the Jeep cabin to tell the timer to turn on again even when the Jeep engine is shut down. This allows you to operate the radio system if you need to when the Jeep isn’t running.
As outlined in the wiring diagram at the top of the page, the 12V power to the timer comes from the maxi fuse block and connects to the +BAT terminal on the timer. One of the +OUT terminals on the timer supplies the 12V power to the larger Blue Sea 6-circuit fuse block. The GND terminal on the timer is grounded to the Jeep battery, and PIN 3 (LOAD) on the SPST manual override switch runs to the IGN terminal on the timer.
I mounted the shutdown timer on the passenger side firewall underneath the carpet on the floorboard. Use two pieces of Gorilla Glue heavy-duty mounting tape (it’s rated to hold up to 30 pounds) as shown above. Stick the timer to the firewall and firmly hold it in place for 1-2 minutes so the mounting tape bonds to the firewall. This much easier than trying to attach the timer to the firewall with screws. The +OUT and +BAT terminals on the timer should be facing the passenger side of the Jeep.
It is much easier to mount the timer if you remove the passenger seat. Use a T50 Torx bit to remove the bolts on the passenger seat frame.
7. Attach the 8 Gauge 12V Power Wire To The Shutdown Timer
Now that you have routed all of the wires through the Jeep firewall pass the red 8 gauge power wire behind the dash and over to the passenger slide floorboard where the timer is mounted. Determine where you can cut the wire and attach it to the +BAT terminal on the timer.
I left a little slack in the wire in case it was needed and also added some plastic spiral wrap since wire will contact the floorboard of the Jeep (it gets hot!).
Once you make the cut, label the wire as well. I put ‘Battery + 12V to Timer +BAT’ on the label.
Use a #10 Selterm heavy-duty copper terminal and a piece of 3/8″ marine heat shrink just as you did in step 1 and secure it in place with the screw on the +BAT terminal on the timer.
8. Wire the Shutdown Timer Ground
To ground the shutdown timer, use a piece of 14 gauge primary wire, preferably in black to represent that it is a ground wire. Cut and slide a piece of 1/4″ marine heat shrink onto the wire, then attach a #10 ring terminal for 16-14 gauge wire to one of the wire with either a rachet or fixed crimping tool. Apply heat to the heat shrink until it contracts the glue runs out of the end of the tubing.
To create a proper ground connection remove a bit of the paint from the area where you will attach the wire to the Jeep body. I attached the wire just above the shutdown timer (see photo below). A Dremel 428 carbon steel wire brush makes removing the paint nice and easy. You only need to remove just enough so the ring terminal makes contact with the bare metal on the firewall.
To attach the wire to the firewall drill a small pilot hole first, then secure it with a #12-3/4″ self drilling screw. On the opposite end of the ground wire, strip a small portion of the shielding back and attach the wire to the GRD terminal on the timer by loosening the screw in the terminal, insert the wire into the terminal opening, and re-tighten the screw.
All of the wires are attached to the timer in the photo below. This includes both the 8 gauge power wire that will run to the 6-circuit fuse block and the wire from the SPST manual override switch.
9. Wire The Manual Override Switch
I used a Blue Sea Systems 7930 Contura II SPST Momentary switch for the manual override. “Momentary” means that when the switch is in the ON position, it is only there for a moment. You push the switch to the ON position, then it returns to the OFF position. When the switch is pressed, it tells the Lind shutdown timer to turn on and supply power to the 6-circuit fuse block so the radios can be operated. A non-momentary switch stays in the ON position until it is pressed again to return to the OFF position.
The notation on the package (ON) means that the ON position is momentary. The 12V constant power wire from step 2 connects to PIN 2 (POWER) on the switch and PIN 3 (LOAD) is wired to the IGN terminal on the Lind shutdown timer.
Route the 14 gauge 12V constant wire behind the dash and into the glove box compartment (remove the glove box for easy access). Since the wire is constantly powered a fuse needs to be installed to protect the circuit. I used a NAPA Auto Parts Inline Mini Fuse Holder which has 16 gauge wire. NAPA also makes a 16 to 14 gauge step-down butt/crimp connector, so use one of those and attach the 14 gauge end of the connector to the 14 gauge 12V constant power wire.
Connect the 16 gauge end (this end is marked by the black band on the connect, see in the photo above) to the inline fuse holder. On the other end of the inline fuse holder, crimp the 16 gauge end of another step-down butt connector to the fuse holder. Cut another length of 14 gauge wire that will run to the switch (red in the photo above), and connect it to the 14 gauge end of the butt connector. You can use marine heat shrink on these connections as well.
Insert a Littlefuse Mini 2 Amp Fuse into the fuse holder and place the fuse holder in a secure place within the glove box.
The switch will fit in the factory Jeep TJ switch pod. Remove the center dash bezel and the switch pod and place the switch into one of the open holes. When the switch is seated in the holder it will look like the photo below.
Cut a length of 14 gauge primary wire to run from PIN 3 on the switch to the IGN terminal on the shutdown timer. Attach 2 16-14 gauge female disconnect crimp terminals to the 12V constant wire and the IGN wire along with marine heat shrink on each wire. Seat the female disconnect terminals onto their respective switch pins and re-attach the switch pod and the center dash bezel. Label both of the wires as well.
10. Mount The 6-Circuit Fuse Block
The radio power leads connect to the Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade ATO/ATC fuse block. Using this type of fuse block allows you to run one source of power from the battery to the fuse block, and power multiple devices from the fuse block instead of running individual power leads for each device (to the Jeep battery). The fuse block I used allows you to attach up to 6 circuits/devices.
Mount the fuse block under the passenger seat (leave it out of the Jeep until the install is finished). You will need to remove the factory jack that comes with the Jeep and cut off the 2 mounting tabs for the jack so the fuse block will fit in this space.
Next, cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood to a dimension of 7.5″ (long) x 4.5″ (wide). The fuse block will be mounted to the plywood, and the plywood is attached to the Jeep body. Test fit the piece of plywood in the mounting location once the cuts are made.
Once the paint is dry, place the fuse block onto the plywood and center it.
Mark the locations of the mounting holes with a marker or something pointed such as a drill bit. Attach the fuse block to the plywood with 4 5/8″ screws and place the fuse block in the mounting location. Do not screw it to the Jeep body yet in case you need to make any adjustments while running the radio power lead (covered in part 5 of this post series).
11. Run 8 Gauge Power Wire & Ground Wire to Fuse Block
Attach a Selterm 8 gauge #10 heavy-duty copper terminal to a piece of red 8 gauge wire with a piece of marine heat shrink. Label the wire ’12V Power From Timer +OUT’ and place a piece of clear heat shrink over the label. Attach the wire to the +OUT terminal on the Lind shutdown timer and the + (positive) terminal on the right side of the fuse block. Cover the wire in spiral wrap as well since it will sit on the floor of the Jeep body.
You are almost done! Now that all of the components and wiring are installed for the power system, secure the Insultherm sleeving in place with zip ties in the Jeep engine compartment.
On the 1.5″ diameter Insultherm sleeving fold any excess slack in the sleeving over (“roll it up”) and place zip ties around it to keep the sleeving and wires tight. Do this along the entire length of the sleeving. Do the same thing for the 5/8″ sleeving as well.
Secure both pieces of Insultherm sleeving to the the existing Jeep wiring split flex tube as shown in the photos below.
Up Next – Part 5
Part 5 in this series the last step of the install! It will cover the radio RF grounds, running the radio power leads to the 6-circuit fuse block, installing the PL-259 connectors on the antenna coax wires, and how to do an SWR meter test. Check it out next!
Judaculla Rock 552 Judaculla Rock Rd Cullowhee, NC 28723 Jackson County Nantahala National Forest
Near Sylva, NC & Western North Caroline University
Coordinates: N 35.30126, W -83.11021
Click the sidebar on the map for more information
The information on this page is adapted from the educational signs at the Judaculla Rock site and from the websites that are referenced below. I have paraphrased it here to tell the story of this important historical and cultural place. It is not an original work of my own. Please visit the Blue Ridge Heritage Trail site or Jackson County NC Recreation/Parks Department for more information.
As the Cherokee Indian legend is told, Judaculla was a god of the spirit world and the master of all game animals. He lived high atop Tanasee Bald within the Great Balsam Mountain range, and from the next mountain top over upon his “judgment seat” he presided over all who partook in the hunting of his game. Judaculla’s Judgement Seat is known as the Devil’s Courthouse today. ¹
One day a group of disrespectful hunters passed through his land, and Judaculla jumped down from his judgment seat high in the mountains and landed on a large boulder in the Caney Fork valley (at a distance of over 10 miles and an elevation change of 3,200 feet).¹
As Judaculla landed on the boulder, he put his hand down to steady himself which left an impression on the rock’s surface. He also drew a sharp line across the face of the rock with the nail of his right index finger to remind anyone that harm would come to those who crossed the line without first going through the appropriate rituals.¹ Both the line and the imprint of his hand can be seen on Judaculla Rock today.
Judaculla’s Hand Print
Judaculla Rock on December 18, 2020
The name Judaculla is an anglicized (English) pronunciation of the Cherokee name Tsul ‘Kalu and means “he has them slanting” which is referring to his eyes. He was known to the Cherokee people to be a slant-eyed giant, and they included his name in their various formulas, rites, and rituals to invoke his favor and success in hunting.¹
What is a Petroglyph?
A petroglyph is a form of “rock art”. Native Americans inscribed these images into the face of the rock by methods such as pecking, abrading or scratching.
Petroglyphs can have many meanings. Sometimes they were created or used during rituals or ceremonies, while others may tell a story, mark an important event or serve as a map.
The syllabary on the signs around Judaculla Rock were created by a Cherokee named Sequoyah in the 1820s.
Petroglyphs on Judaculla Rock
There are about 1,548 petroglyph designs on Judaculla Rock. This is more than any known boulder in the Eastern US. These petroglyphs symbolize important places, stories or events.
Circa 1930 – Milas Parker and the Parker family ‘whitewashed’ Judaculla Rock with chalk so the petroglyphs were easier to see ²
Archaeologists and researchers believe that use of the site surrounding Judaculla Rock started about 3,000 years ago when soapstone was quarried from the rock to make bowls. You can still see the remnants of the soapstone that was quarried on the lower left-hand side of the rock.
Long after the quarrying stopped the petroglyph carvings are thought to have started around 1,500 years ago and continued up until 300 years ago.
There are several different theories on the meaning of these petroglyphs. Some think that Judaculla Rock served as a boundary marker for Cherokee hunting grounds.
Another theory is that the petrogylphs are a three-dimensional picture map of Judaculla’s world.¹ Yet other theories suggest that the markings tell of how one can enter into the spiritual world or that they are a map of the Battle of Taliwa where the Cherokees defeated the Creek tribe in 1755.³
Judaculla Area Landscape
In the 800 square mile area surrounding the Judaculla Rock site there are 12 place-names and features that reference Judaculla’s name. Early settlers called the Tanasee Bald area ‘Judaculla Old Fields’ and it was considered to be both his farm and one of his underworld entryways.¹
Below Tanasee Bald and the Devil’s Courthouse lie the Judaculla Ridge and Old Bald Ridge which were believed to be large fields that Judaculla once farmed. The granitic dome mountain named Looking Glass Rock is where Judaculla saw his own reflection. When the mountain is wet or icy, the granite cliff reflects light. It is said that only a giant would be able to stand so tall and see his reflection at those heights (3,969 feet).¹ Judaculla Mountain lies to the north of Judaculla Rock as well.
The surrounding town of Cullowhee is an anglicized (English) form of ‘Judaculla-whee’ which means Judaculla’s Place.¹ Cullowhee is six miles northeast of Judaculla Rock and is a historic Cherokee town and was also the site of a council house mound.
Judaculla Rock Site Today
The Judaculla Rock site is owned by Jackson County, NC today. In 1959 the Parker family that still owns the surrounding farm donated 1 acre to Jackson County for the site.
For nearly 100 years, the Parker family has served as a benefactor of the larger Judaculla Rock site to protect it from vandalism that has defaced or destroyed a number of other petroglyph sites in North Carolina. 107 acres of the surrounding Parker family farm was placed into a permanent conservation easement that will continue to protect the broader cultural site and preserve it from any development in the years to come.
Signs
Click the images below to view a photo of each one of the signs that are posted around the site.
Scroll to the bottom of the page for the headliner video
Looking for more information on how to make a Jeep Wrangler hard top headliner or wondering why would you want a hard top headliner for your Jeep? It might sound like a reasonable question, and most people would first think that it is just good for appearance. While I will admit that is one of the reasons I wanted one, there are a couple of other reasons as well.
After painting the interior of my Jeep hardtop black, I thought that making a custom headliner would give the cabin that nice, finished feel. I never liked the factory white finish on Jeep hardtops and thought it was distracting and clashed with the otherwise dark components of the interior such as the black plastic trim and dark seat covers.
Interested in painting the interior of your Jeep hardtop? Check out this video and companion post to learn how.
So, what are the other reasons that you might want a hardtop headliner? These are the most common: Sound Deadening ■ Insulation ■ Audio/Acoustics ■ Somewhere To Stick Velcro Morale Patches
I run Super Swamper TSL/SX tires on my Jeep. Given the tire’s aggressive lug pattern they have quite a bit of tire whine, especially at highway speeds. I have had several people comment that the tire noise is audible while talking on my GMRS or Ham radio.
While the hardtop does help block out some of this noise (the tire noise is even louder with the soft top on), I figured that the 1/2″ foam insulation board that I used for the headliner panels would help with noise reduction as well. So far I can say (anecdotally) it does indeed seem to help quiet some of the noise within the cabin.
You can buy material that is specifically designed for sound deadening and noise reduction such as Dynamat, but it is often quite expensive. A package of 9 pieces or 36 square feet of the Dynamat material is $160. While the Dynamat may perform better for its intended purpose, when you compare it to the $12.94 that the foam insulation board costs the Dynamat may not be worth all the extra money. If you are interested in using this type of material there are several cheaper alternatives available on Amazon.
Jeep Hardtop Insulation
We all know that Jeeps are designed to be out in the elements, but if you live in an area where it can get very cold or very hot you may appreciate the insulation that a headliner can offer for better climate control.
The foam insulation board that I used is intended for building or home insulation purposes, but it is made of polyisocyanurate foam that is bonded to a thin aluminum layer of metal-type material on each side. Basically what that means is that the board is a rigid foam that is coated with aluminum foil that helps reflect warm or cool air off of its surface and back down into the cabin of the Jeep.
Audio / Acoustics
This reason was not really a consideration for me, but certain headliner and insulation materials have the ability to enhance audio sound and make it more natural and rich. There are also other mat type materials that are designed for acoustic enhancement and primarily work by reducing the noise entering the vehicle and vibration.
Buy Vs. DIY
There are a number of pre-manufactured hardtop headliners on the market from companies like Hothead Headliners, Boom Mat and even OEM ones from Mopar. In newer Jeeps (JK, JL, JT) these headliner kits usually consist of multiple pieces that are adhered to the hardtop panels. The factory white finish is still visible as well (unless you paint it). The pre-made headliner kits are expensive, starting around $200 going to to $500+ depending on the brand and model you select.
For comparison, the total cost of the materials I used for my headliner project was $112.54. Most of that cost was actually for the heavy-duty mounting tape that I used to attach the headliner panels to the hardtop. Watch the video below to learn more.
Headliner Fabric
I knew that I wanted a charcoal or heather gray type color for my headliner material. I checked eBay and found a few listings for “automotive interior upholstery headliner fabric” but after looking at the images I wasn’t crazy about the texture that most of these fabrics have (they look “ribbed” in the photos).
Thankfully I didn’t have to search to far to find what I was looking for. I ended up using a “heather charcoal trunkliner” fabric from Sailrite. According to the page for this fabric, it is made from dyed synthentic fibers and is UV resistant to fade and also mildew and stains. More details are included in the list of materials below.
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed above through the links provided above. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
I used the following products for this project: ■ Sailrite Trunkliner Charcoal Fabric 54″ – Sailrite (2 yards) ■ Rmax R-Matte 1/2″ x 4′ x 8′ Foam Insulation Board – Home Depot (1 board) ■ Scotch Blue 1.41″ Painters Tape (Masking Tape) – Amazon (1 roll) ■ Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Spray Adhesive – Amazon (1 can) ■ Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Mounting Tape – Amazon (8 rolls) ■ Xacto Black Gripster Knife – Amazon ■ Fabric Scissors – Amazon ■ Straight Pins – Amazon ■ Kreg Multi-Mark Tool – Amazon ■ ECKWRAP 4″ Plastic Felt Edge Squeegee – Amazon
As mentioned above, the total cost for the fabric, foam insulation board, painters tape, spray adhesive and heavy-duty mounting tape was $112.54.
Most of this cost is actually in the Gorilla Glue Heavy-Duty mounting tape because it is around $8.00 per roll, and I ended up using 8 rolls with a little left to spare. Gorilla Glue also makes a “regular” mounting tape that is about $6.00 per roll, or you could also just use the spray adhesive to attach the headliner panels to the hardtop. I used the heavy-duty mounting tape for my tailgate table project and it has held up well, so I decided to use it for the headliner as well.
NOTE: My Jeep is a 2004 (TJ) and the video demonstrates the steps for a Jeep TJ hardtop headliner, but I think you will still find the video useful as the general steps are the same for a JK, JL or JT hardtop (2007-current). The video also includes detail on how to fold the fabric around the edges of the foam board and upholster it in general.
I never really cared for the plain white finish that Jeep hardtops have from the factory. I felt like it clashed against the rest of the Jeep’s interior and had an “unfinished” look. So instead of just leaving it unfinished, I decided to paint the interior black!
Follow along in the video below for step-by-step instructions on how to paint a Jeep hardtop interior from start to finish.
Interested in making a custom Jeep hardtop headliner? Check out this video and the companion post to learn how.
Before we get started I’d like to ask you for a favor. If you find this post useful please consider supporting this site by purchasing any of the items listed above through the links provided. The links to Amazon are affiliate links, and the small commission that I may earn keeps this site running so I can continue to provide helpful information.
